DISTRIBUTOR REBUILD & COIL TESTING

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Now the mechanical advance returns very nicely back to it's stop postion. Now........the slot on the other side is LONGER. Flipping the top will allow more mechanical advance. Switching the heavy spring to a lighter spring will allow the advance to come on sooner.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

DAMN!

Don't you just know this engine FELL-ON-IT'S FACE! Laughing

The REAL-DEAL Mitsu ROTOR was a SOFTER MATERIAL and was much HARDER for the spark to SEEK-GROUND to this bolt.

If it's been replaced with a AFTERMARKET rotor.....BUY THE "PREMIUM" PARTS Exclamation

Check the bottom of the rotor for signs that the spark is penitrating the rotor. This will cause a miss fire under acceleration.........then it cause a short and the car will not start at all as it becomes worse.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

No wonder you ended up in a BONEYARD. Laughing

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

You've got 6 towers to inspect for corrosion......and LOOK...down inside the sparkplug wires & coil wire too. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

"How do we RE-HOOK-UP the coil?" JUST LIKE THIS! Several pics.

CAUTION/WARNING!! Some AFTERMARKET COILS require a RESISTOR....and some do NOT! READ YOUR INSTRUCTIONS FIRST OR DO NOT REPLACE THE OEM DIAMOND! (the "MSD"s and "ACELLS" ain't gonna make more spark = WHY DO IT? Rolling Eyes

)

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

BLACK...with WHITE STRIPE WIRE IS: "Ign1", IGNITION POSITIVE (+)THRU-OUT THIS CAR!! Taking ANY voltage from BLACK/WHITE (BW) should be AVOIDED! Rolling Eyes

It ALSO feeds the FUEL PUMP!

You HAVE "Ign2" & the "Acc" wire to take voltage from for ADDITIONAL GADGETS you want in your car.

BLUE/WHITE IS: "ACC."! BLUE/BLACK IS: "IGN2."! This would be the PROPER PLACE to get voltage from with a HEATED O2 SENSOR!!

OR....just below your A/C Evap. housing you'll SEE some SEROIUS WIRE GAUGE WIRES....that you can HEAT your O2 with. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

You might wanna remember that MANY cars have NOISE SUPPRESSORS THRU-OUT THE CAR.

For example: You've seen them on the BACK-SIDE of an Alternator...or inside the Alternator....next to the electric fuel pump...near a speaker....inside the Dist...a gauge... All of those have one thing in common...A COIL OF FINE WIRE....same as a ANTENNA! Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

A qoute by Mike C. Wink

The knock sensor is basically a microphone with a VERY weak output. You can't hook up a light or LED to it. Even a regular voltmeter and most oscilloscopes will overwhelm it. Some digital meters have enough input impedance but the knock signal is such a quick spike output that digital meters won't "see" it typically.

The factory ignition module monitors the knock signal when the ECU tells the ignitor to do so - basically any time the stock boost guage is in the filled-in region of low vacuum or on-boost. If the ignition module (aka "ignitor") detects knock, the ignitor retards the ignition timing until the knock goes away. You'll feel this as a sudden loss of power generally. The ignitor does not "learn" or remember the new timing so next time you go into boost the engine will knock again... and the ignitor will then retard timing again. It never learns to "anticipate" knock. And the ECU is totally oblivous too - there is NO FEEDBACK to the ECU to let it know knock is occuring. Thus, relying on the ignitor to "tune" for knock will never work on a StarQuest... unlike many later cars with "learning" ECUs.

When the knock sensor is totally bad/disconnected, the ignitor "sees" the loss in continuity and assumes a fail-safe mode: it retards the ignition timing several degrees. The engine/HP will be pretty wussy. Unless you adjust the distributor timing... which is not the right thing to do of course. In fact, if you ever have to move the distributor close to the ends of its adjustment range SOMETHING IS WRONG! Either the ignitor is retarding timing a ton due to a wigged-out (hyperactive) knock sensor or a missing sensor or the camshaft to crankshaft timing is off (timing chain not installed correctly) or the distributor wasn't installed to the camshaft correctly.

mike c.

Well put, Mike C!

Let me add this to it:

The detonation sensor...sends a LOW VOLTAGE SPIKE (sorta like an O2) to the "IGNITOR" when it *HEARS* a "KNOCK".....ELECTRONICALLY REDUCING IGNITION TIMING.....for *WHATEVER* reason (too much timing, wrong octane, bad fuel system parts, failure to rebuild your dizzy, Rolling Eyes

etc etc.)

That *IS* a German made part (Bosch) Wink

that cost less than $100,
and you should replace the detonation sensor if it looks like it "came-apart-at-da-seems".

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Reduced: 34% of original size [ 1168 x 1296 ] - Click to view full image

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

"My car will CRANK-OVER, but NOT start."
OK...when you crank-over your engine...does your TACH NEEDLE wiggle a lil'?
If the TACH NEEDLE just don't move at all while cranking...then the ECU isn't seeing any SPARK at all. Shocked

Your PRIME SUSPECT!

"It runs fine for a few minutes then suddenly STOPS running!"

TYPICAL! Once the "Knock Box" builds some temperture, it's SOLDER JOINTS INSIDE are CRACKED...and the circutry SEPERATES the connection. Sometimes....pouring COLD WATER on it will GET YOU HOME. Wink

REPLACE THE KNOCK BOX!

TESTED....replacement "Knock Boxes". $100 shipped (retail for new one was about $700! and are OBSOLETE NOW)

Email: waynescoolworld@netzero.net
or call PQ (505) 299-9012