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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Thu Dec 16, 2004 7:32 pm |
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Injectors have several FAULTS that require replacement of the "clips" and/or the injectors.
CAUTION! Sending away your fuel injectors to have them "professionally" cleaned at $22-$36 is often a waste of time, effort and YOUR MONEY!
However, Professor Quest will clean your fuel injectors for FREE!
You just pay for the shipping cost. See our cleaning equipment further down this article.
p/n for 87-89 Starquest- SSD-2008 $220 for both injectors...
or $250 for a complete INSTALL KIT with pigtails (clips)....shipped.
email: waynescoolworld@netzero.net
or call Professor Quest @ (505) 299-9012
STOP! Proceed NO FURTHER...until you TEST YOUR FUEL PRESSURE
Members that have REPEAT FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT ARE CUTTING CORNERS...or doing a HALF-ass EFFORT!
For MORE INFO on fuel pressure gauge install, please view this link:
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1127
Understanding Mitsu Injectors: Letters stamped into injector
1983 thru 1986
Begin date thru 5/83 850cc Black. qty-2 MD608869
6/83 thru 1/85 850cc Black qty-2 "H" MD608909
2/85 thru 1/86 850cc Black qty-2 "J" MD614004
2/86 thru 5/86 850cc Black qty-2 "K" MD614114
1987 thru 1989
6/86 thru 89 580cc Black "L" MD614102 PRIMARY INJECTOR (fender side)
6/86 thru 89 1080cc Green "M" MD614036 SECONDARY INJECTOR (valve cover side) about $400 each.
SUPER NOTE: If you have *RECENTLY* purchased brand new Mitsu injectors, as we have, the PRIMARY BLACK is marked as an "H" and the SECONDARY GREEN may have *NO* letter at all.
HOWEVER....those Mitsu's injectors went "OBSOLETE" in 2007!
NOTE: 87-89 Black primary injector= black clip (pigtail)
Green secondary injector= green clip (pigtail)
I found this TB in the hatch of a car at the bone yard. Looks like maybe it was rebuilt because the regulator and injectors have a newer appearance.
When replacing the injectors, always lube the O-rings with WD-40 and twist them into the the TOP of the mixer.
If there is any damage to the mixer recesses or if the O-rings TWIST as you install the injectors...you'll have a fuel leak.
Probably the cleanest used injector I've come across. It was in the hatch of an 86 that had a blown engine.
CAUTION! Owners change out the injectors with the WRONG INJECTOR FREQUENTLY! Not good, Maverick!
And.....buying a USED INJECTOR? Sucking on them with your MOUTH....tells you....IF IT LEAKS
Think of a injector/fuel lines/filters as a mini-fuel tank. STORED FUEL CLOGS/TRASHES EVERY PART IN YOUR FUEL SYSTEM
A LEAKING injector makes your engine run PIG RICH....delutes your engine oil...and pretty much destroys your engine.
CAUTION: DAMAGED, USED INJECTORS ARE SOLD ALL THE TIME!! |
Last edited by JustPaus on Tue Jun 20, 2006 10:27 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Thu Dec 16, 2004 7:44 pm |
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Using 400 wet/dry is an IDEAL WAY to clean BOTH terminals
ON BOTH SIDES.......ON BOTH INJECTORS
Below: What *YOU* thought was "clean enough" IS NOT!
I'll clean the terminals FIRST..........and check the injectors coil resistance with a digital OHM meter set at the 200 scale. The acceptable range is 2-3 OHMS taken directly from the injectors terminals.
Oops! 6.1 OHMS.............this is a bad injector!!! OR IS IT?
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Last edited by JustPaus on Tue Jun 20, 2006 10:28 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Thu Dec 16, 2004 7:46 pm |
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Always make sure your OHM METER ZEROS OUT when tested like this. As it turns out, one of my Jr. employees broke the ground lead and used a butt connector and heat shrink to repair it. That's EXACTLY WHY you CAN NOT use BUTT CONNECTORS to replace INJECTOR CLIPS/PIGTAILS!!!!
CONNECTORS/TERMINALS GENERATE RESISTANCE!
You can NEVER have TOO MANY TOOLS! The injector tested out at 2.9 OHMS. Now let's see how well it FIRES!
Take a 4 foot section of clear 3/8 hose.
Remove the O-ring from the top of the injector.
Attach hose to top of injector with a hose clamp.
Keep hose up-right.
I put the hose thru a hook in the ceiling.
With a rubber tip on the end of an air hose, apply 40-50 psi of air to the hose.
Or attach the air hose with a union direct to your compressor. (see pic)
Now apply the currant from a 9 volt battery solderd to an injector clip. You can also install a switch to kill the currant.
STOP! I suggest a REVERSE FLOW FIRST...into a white towel/rag to VIEW...what CAME OUT! If RUST PARTICLES came out... Did you FLUSH YOUR TANK AND STEEL HOSES...& install NEW FILTERS THRU-OUT? Also...the injectors MIGHT work OK for a short while...but it could go-back to leaking = REPLACE WITH NEW FUEL INJECTORS! (also stated in the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL) LEAKING INJECTORS WILL DESTROY YOUR ENGINE!!
Try not to run air threw the injector. You COULD damage it.
Kinda hard to see...but you can see it. The carb cleaner is making a pretty desent pattern. Note the first blast concentrated in the center on the poster board. Carb cleaner will BLAST-OUT any varnish in a second or two.
You don't need this PULSE TOOL...a 9 volt battery will open the injector.
***WARNING! DO-NOT-USE THE CLIPS LISTED BELOW!***
It'll snap the plastic!
"But they slide on with a small push." Yep......now add in some VIBRATION!
Sooner or later.....you'll snap your plastic housing.
MORE DETAILS FOR CLIP REPLACEMENT BELOW!
"OLD SCHOOL" Bosch connectors......NO SEALS, weather boot AT ALL....NOT PRE-WIRED, waste of time and effort.
Summit......whoever....wants to DUMP OLD INVENTORY!
***WARNING! DO-NOT-USE THE SQUARE CORNER "clip" numbers:!***
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G P Sorensen 800-9213 -Auto Zone etc.
CARQUEST SK-25
NAPA/ECHLIN 2-18457
INTRODUCING "PQ's SUPER CLIPS 1000"!
Sold in a 2 pack with DIELECRIC GREASE, HEAT SHRINK & HARNESS HOLDER for $37 shipped. REAL DEAL: with ROUND CORNERS so they fit like MY GLOVES!
Two more tips: You can also run the carb cleaner thru the injector in REVERSE. Little see-saw action.
And......you can SUCK on the injectors with your mouth to see if they hold vacuum. This will tell you if they will leak. |
Last edited by JustPaus on Tue Jun 20, 2006 10:28 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Thu Dec 16, 2004 7:52 pm |
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Test 1. Clean the terminals FIRST...then OHM TEST THEM. 2-3 ohms.
Test 2. Clean em' off, now suck on them with your mouth to VERIFY they hold vacuum. If it leaks vacuum...then it DRIPS FUEL!
Test 3. REVERSE FLOW CLEANING FIRST! If you RECIEVE the contaminates into a WHITE TOWEL...don't be surprised to see RUST PARTICLES!
Test 4. CLEAN the injector (as pictured) in the normal flow direction.
A LEAKING INJECTOR is pretty common and will DESTROY your engine...cause it will be PIG-RICH!
If you remove the OVCP (over valve cover pipe) run the engine....while you watch the fuel being sprayed. Now.....turn it off. FUEL SHOULD NOT LEAK ONCE TURNED OFF!
VERIFY:! Remove your injectors.....wipe them off.....now SUCK ON THEM (with your mouth) to see if VACUUM BLEEDS DOWN!
IF....RUST PARTICLES HAVE ENTERD YOUR INJECTORS (pretty common)
Then the COIL WITHIN BEHAVES PRETTY ERRATIC! This makes the ISC/MPS attempt to COUNTER the stalling & low RPM that is frequent to see/watch.
This will make you THINK.... it's a bad ISC/MPS. WRONG! It's TRYING to do it's job.
Bill S wrote:
so I can use a 9 volt battery to clean my injectors? Whats your recommended cleaning solution?
Prof wrote:
NEW pic above will help you. You just solder a connector to a 9 volt battery, or buy a 9 volt battery adapter at Radio Shack.
Fill about 3 feet of hose with carb cleaner and provide 40-50 psi of air to that hose after you fill it with CARB CLEANER. Then apply the currant.
Pretty easy...but I suggest you do a REVERSE FLOW FIRST into a white towel/rag! Now....flip it over to flush/clean in the normal fashion.
Some injectors will "pee" or drip fuel. If after several attempts to run carb cleaner threw them they still do it, they're done....but MAYBE...using "CLR" could make the differance!
Shelby wrote:
Spraying the injectors into a gas safe container will enable you to reuse or save the carb cleaner. You can also soak the injectors with the tip open to help remove stuborn deposits.
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Last edited by JustPaus on Tue Jun 20, 2006 10:29 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Fri Jul 11, 2008 6:25 pm |
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Sending away your fuel injectors to have them professionally cleaned is often a waste of time, effort and $36 EACH + shipping.
PQ'S *NEW* fuel injectors are $220....SHIPPED! You ain't gonna do better than *NEW*!
ULTRASONIC CLEANING...of the REVERSE TYPE is known to be SUPERIOR to ANY of the early-type of coventional injector cleaning.
It GATHERS....what comes-out of the injector too.
We are NOT strangers to VIEW RUST PARTICLES that got inside the injector.
KNOW.....where your MONEY is spent...and what worked...and DID NOT WORK!
I DO BELIEVE....you can flush your fuel injectors yourself *IF* they can be SALVAGED at all. |
_________________ THE S.O.S. MANUAL & PARTS ($ave our $tarquest)
clic below link:
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewforum.php?f=12
Last edited by Professor Quest on Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:48 am; edited 3 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:10 pm |
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Hey.......that looks the same as a STORED FUEL TANK!
Once the PINTLE....or the HOLE has rusted away the tolerances... there is
little help that flushing an injector can correct a INTERNAL FUEL LEAK! We have attempted this MANY times but ultimately they will begin to LEAK again *IF* it appeared to help at all.
Same as a CONTAMINATED STEEL FUEL TANK....& STEEL FILLER NECKS & STEEL FUEL LINES,
EXTENDED STORAGE of a Starquest IS PURE HELL ON THIS CAR!
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_________________ THE S.O.S. MANUAL & PARTS ($ave our $tarquest)
clic below link:
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Sat Aug 29, 2009 11:11 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Fri Aug 01, 2008 4:35 pm |
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New 12mm in-tank screen filters are still available. $12
call PM or Email or call (505) 299-9012.
12mm in & out, IN-STOCK, READY TO SHIP FOR $25
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE A 3/8 (10mm) in/out FILTER!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Sat Aug 29, 2009 11:13 am; edited 4 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Fri Aug 01, 2008 5:00 pm |
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Below: Da FAT-BOY! Bosch complete with install kit
for only $150! ALL MOTOR...no wrap-around insulation necessary!
Pumps are ON SALE NOW for $150!
In-tank filter $12
12mm in-out filter $25
Because at this time (Aug-2006) Walbro has reduced the DIAMETER/SIZE
of the 255lph. (GSL-392) I no longer believe that Walbro is a solution. 255lph is common enough!
Once you have installed many Walbros...you'll note the change this year *IF* you have been buying fuel pumps for YEARS!
In other words.......AVOID THE WALBROS!
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_________________ THE S.O.S. MANUAL & PARTS ($ave our $tarquest)
clic below link:
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Jul 30, 2009 10:48 am; edited 4 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Fri Aug 01, 2008 5:19 pm |
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DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THESE TWO SCREENS!
Use CARB CLEANER & BLOW EM' CLEAN!
You MUST release residual fuel pressure by loosening at a fuel line. You can do this at the TB. If you still have fuel in the tank........remove the TB hose and place in a small fuel can. PUMP ALL THE FUEL from the tank...if you can.
This is known as the "High Pressure Filter" MB504732 . This is the RIGHT filter for your car. $42 shipped with the 4 copper gaskets.
Other manufactors build TRASH replacements......."made in CHINA, TAIWAN, ISREAL"......the VERY WORST!
Or.......call-in your request to (505) 299-9012
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_________________ THE S.O.S. MANUAL & PARTS ($ave our $tarquest)
clic below link:
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Mon May 18, 2009 11:01 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Fri Aug 01, 2008 5:29 pm |
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NOTE! This conical screen filter ONLY FITS the OEM Nippon fuel pump!
MD604392 conical filter. $6 Snaps into the inlet nipple of the factory fuel pump.
These conical filters went OBSOLETE several years ago and that's GOOD! THROW YOUR OLD CONICAL FILTER AWAY!!
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_________________ THE S.O.S. MANUAL & PARTS ($ave our $tarquest)
clic below link:
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Jul 30, 2009 11:19 am; edited 1 time in total |
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CyberQuest
Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 124
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Posted:
Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:50 am |
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"My car runs like shit!" Well....pay attention to this topic because it is NORMAL to have this problem if you haven't replaced the FACTORY injector clips after 20 years of CORROSION!
You SHOULD replace the clips......ONE WIRE AT A TIME, or a least refer to HOW-TO-IDENTIFY-WHAT-WIRE-GOES-WERE!
YW=YELLOW/WHITE (primary inj. POSITIVE)
YB=YELLOW/BLACK (primary inj. GROUND
YG=YELLOW/GREEN (secondary inj. POSITIVE)
YL=YELLOW/LIGHT BLUE (secondary inj. GROUND)
THE PRIMARY INJECTOR IS ON THE LH FENDER SIDE...BLACK IN COLOR!
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Last edited by CyberQuest on Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:10 am; edited 1 time in total |
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CyberQuest
Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 124
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Posted:
Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:51 am |
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Can we call this a "ROUND HOLE".....or "OVAL? It damn sure ain't a RECTANGLE!
This is the factory "clip" and factory injector. Fits perfect! To bad you can't buy them from Mitsu.
Why replace a "clip" that is already made with new terminals ( double crimped) and 10 inches of NEW WIRE? Because that CORROSION (that green crap) travels DOWN INSIDE THE WIRE!
What happens when the weather boot bits the dirt? THINK!
A few inches away......under your CLOSED HOOD, where those nasty battery fumes gonna past right by those clips?
Most HOT-RODS use a GEL TYPE BATTERY for an EXCELLANT REASON......NO EMEMIES UNDER THE HOOD!
A missing weather boot allows the WIRE to rub on the HOUSING. That "VIBRATION" will EAT right thru the HARD PLASTIC HOUSING!
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CyberQuest
Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 124
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Posted:
Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:52 am |
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That means: The RESISTANCE ALONE within the wire is a problem. Not to mention.....those TERMINALS ARE ALSO CORRODED!
Now.....if you SOLDER THEM ON, The VIBRATION will shake the crap outta the solder joint (at this position of the clips) and FAILURE is bound to happen INSIDE where you CAN NOT SEE IT!
The DOs....and the DONT! You want GREAT signal strenth!
Quick-release and CONTAMINATION PROOF!
It's much easier to just replace the entire "PIGTAILS" and not just a "clip".
Mitsu does not want Mitsu mechanics to solder new terminals on either. IT NEEDS A PRE-CRIMPED TERMINAL.....it's in my inventory too!
Mitsu finally INSISTED their dealers purchase this $2,500 assortment of terminals with "W" crimped wire already crimped on.
As large as it is...they should have built ASSEMBLED "pigtails".
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Last edited by CyberQuest on Tue Feb 03, 2009 9:44 am; edited 2 times in total |
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CyberQuest
Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 124
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Posted:
Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:53 am |
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Sold by Summit & others.... This is "OLD SCHOOL" and this..."IDEA" is PURE NONSENSE! DON'T USE THEM! NO WEATHER/CORROSION PROTECTION.......AT ALL!
Once the "WEATHER BOOT" has rottend away...... it eats thru the INSULATION TOO!
You UNWRAP the harness cover/tape....then GENTLY slice open
(razor blade) the INNER SLEEVE.
Because CORROSION has traveled down inside the WIRE ITSELF.....
Replace about six inches of the wire too. My PQ's SUPER 1000 CLIPS come with plenty of new wire already CRIMPED ON!
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CyberQuest
Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 124
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Posted:
Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:57 am |
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CyberQuest
Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 124
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Posted:
Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:59 am |
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CyberQuest
Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 124
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Posted:
Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:00 am |
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CyberQuest
Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 124
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Posted:
Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:01 am |
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These 'BS' clips WILL NOT SNAP ALL THE WAY ON Anddddd...it's a DEATH SENTNANCE to a INJECTOR when you THINK......you can FORCE IT ON!!!
GP Sorensen......Carquest......AutoBONE....Napa.....Checker.....ALL OF THEM....... WRONG CLIPS!
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CyberQuest
Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 124
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Posted:
Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:03 am |
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CyberQuest
Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 124
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Posted:
Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:04 am |
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Introducing "PQ's Super Clips 1000"
A PERFECT FIT, QUICK RELEASE and WEATHER/CORROSION PROOF KIT!
$37 Shipped with dielectric grease and heat shrink!
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CyberQuest
Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 124
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Posted:
Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:05 am |
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Performing a GENTILE, MECHANICAL CLEANING of the injectors
TERMINALS........
............follow it with CHEMICAL CLEANER!
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CyberQuest
Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 124
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Posted:
Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:07 am |
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This simple tool will show you have BOTH the NEGATIVE & POSITIVE CURRANT being deliverd. But......it can't detect a WEAK DELIVERY via a CORRODED/DIRTY TERMINALS!
Many mechanics want to BLAME running issues with INJECTORS or ECUs or MASS or whatever...... that were NEVER PROFESSIONAL TRAINED!
You need to be SMARTER than your "CODES" that are produced by your ECU! EXPERIENCE helps you to "READ-BETWEEN-DA-CODES"! |
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CyberQuest
Joined: 08 Sep 2008
Posts: 124
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Posted:
Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:08 am |
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Are there OTHER "RESISTANCE BASED" problems to be dealt with HELL YES!
KNOW THIS: The CTS's job is to tell the ECU how RICH the injectors should fire (a longer duration when the engine is cold) so this SIGNAL STRENGTH IS VERY IMPORTANT!!
The CTS....COOLANT TEMERTURE SENSOR needs the exact same attention to the "CLIPS" to provide a CLEAN SIGNAL being deliverd to the ECU
The ECU sends the ground (via the BLACK wire) to the CTS. It then TURNS AROUND a VARIBLE GROUND back to the ECU (via the YELLOW/GREEN wire) so the CTS needs to be GOOD...and so do the CONNECTORS!! (and it's wiring)
One of the FEMALE SPADE CONNECTORS is DIFFERANT because they COST MORE.....send the SIGNAL to the ECU via RESISTANCE from the CTS..... ........and the OTHER BLACK WIRE is the sorce of the GROUND for the CTS....from the ECU.
You should NEVER TAP INTO THAT CIRCUT!!!
More to come! |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Mon May 18, 2009 10:52 am |
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"My car runs like shit!" Well....pay attention to this topic because it is NORMAL to have this problem if you haven't replaced the FACTORY injector clips after 20 years of CORROSION!
You SHOULD replace the clips......ONE WIRE AT A TIME, or a least refer to HOW-TO-IDENTIFY-WHAT-WIRE-GOES-WHERE!
YW=YELLOW/WHITE (primary inj. POSITIVE)
YB=YELLOW/BLACK (primary inj. GROUND
YG=YELLOW/GREEN (secondary inj. POSITIVE)
YL=YELLOW/LIGHT BLUE (secondary inj. GROUND)
THE 87-89 PRIMARY INJECTOR IS ON THE LH FENDER SIDE...BLACK IN COLOR!
THE 87-89 SECONDARY INJECTOR IS ON THE VALVE COVER SIDE...GREEN/BLUE IN COLOR!
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_________________ THE S.O.S. MANUAL & PARTS ($ave our $tarquest)
clic below link:
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:18 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Sat Aug 29, 2009 11:38 am |
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A Professor Quest's new *FREEBIE* offer is happening now!
You ship your injectors to us....NO CHARGE TO FLUSH/CLEAN THEM on state-of-the-art flushing equipment! The SONIC REVERSE FLOW (below) is the equipment we have.
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_________________ THE S.O.S. MANUAL & PARTS ($ave our $tarquest)
clic below link:
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewforum.php?f=12 |
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