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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:13 am |
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Note the vacuum supply hose (next to the shinny bolt) & the grommet
from a parts car that WAS a supply hose for the W/W squirter hose.
Also note the revited HARD COVER on the firewall & the RUBBER PLUG to fill
the stud hole.
And......the add-on 3-way harness. Brown wire ass. is for the EGT lead,
larger harness for oil temp & oil pressure warning lamp, smaller "Y" is for
the HEAT SOURCE of a wideband O2. (positive from ignition switch "T" w/fuse)
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Sat Jan 30, 2010 7:59 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:35 pm |
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This ABS modulator, 4 pin round, electrical connector can be used
to build a adapter to test/adjust the ISC/MPS! You'll want the male/female ends.....tape-off the rest of the harness and make it DISAPPEAR!
How TIDDY is this?
What the TOOL is used for;
These are the tools you would need: The adapter harness, A 6 volt battery, an AVOM & DVOM (not pictured)
More info on this at the SOS "TB.......rebuild" topic!
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Wed Nov 11, 2009 10:12 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:59 pm |
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Dead-weight removal! Under the sub-floor in the right, rear hatch.
I recommend you use VICE-GRIPS to remove those super-tight Phillip screws!
The ABS "G" sensor.....just in-front of the spare tire. Weighs a TON!
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Wed Nov 11, 2009 10:06 pm |
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Not *ALL* vehicles had ABS! Yes, you can that out too! BOLT-IN PARTS!
A DIFFERENT CAR.....it is, when you dump-off DEAD WEIGHT!
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Thu Nov 12, 2009 7:54 am |
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Sold at most bodyshop supply stores...spot-weld removal drill bit.
Drill about 95% thru the first peice.....now drive-in a thin chisel....
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Thu Nov 12, 2009 8:03 am |
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When you remove the ABS & CC.....it pretty-much cleans-out this corner.
I know guys that remove the WIPER arms.....or the ENTIRE W/W linkage & motor too!
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Sat Jan 30, 2010 7:48 pm |
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| Professor Quest wrote: |
Guys...you be would listening to a DIPSTICK to NOT understand that A/C is a very EXPENSIVE OPTION... even on a Starquest! If you lived in Alaska...you would want a $1,200 optional A/C like a kick-n-da-nuts!
FSM Chapter 24 is about the heater, blower motor and A/C (if equipped with) and this DUCT is shown at least 3 times for non A/C equipped cars.
Also, 88 Starion FSM, Vol 2, page 8-119 shows this bracket for non A/C equiped Starions! Soooo, STFU already!
THEE kit to have when removing the A/C!
This BRACKET...and the RIGHT, 3 SHORTER BOLTS
INCLUDED with the DUCT! $80 shipped!
Removes the 20lbs A/C compressor bracket!
The OBSOLETE MB123891 non A/C duct, replaces the A/C evaporator & the entire housing.
( 8 lbs more removed) $80 kit w/bracket & bolts price shipped!
From the rear
From below...use "speed-nuts" to attach relays & light controller.
Run a vacuum hose threw the firewall....CAKE! Cap the open hole.
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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:21 pm |
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Install tips:
Remove the relay box so you don't drill into it.
Install #8 machine screws from the engine side with a self-locking nut.
Now you have a STUD to mount the relay to it......and a nice look in the engine bay.
I used SELF DRILLING #8s just for photo sakes. You can do this WITHOUT REMOVING THE FENDER!
The color of the wires can tell what they are used for,
just incase they were moved to another position.
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