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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:39 am |
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Email: waynescoolworld@netzero.net
(For any questions, parts orders, or for general communication)
or Call (505) 299-9012
(Parts Orders Only)
Injectors have several FAULTS that require replacement of the "clips" and/or the injectors.
p/n for 87-89 Starquest- SSD-2008 $220 for both injectors...
or $250 for a complete INSTALL KIT with pigtails, dielectric grease & heat shrink....shipped.
PARTS ORDERS ONLY! @ (505) 299-9012 MONEY ORDERS ONLY! 
Complete Fuel Tanks $275 +S&H
In-tank Mitsu OEM 12mm Fuel filter $12
In-Line 12mm Fuel filter $25
Below: Da FAT-BOY!  Bosch complete with install kit
for only $150! ALL MOTOR...no wrap-around insulation necessary!
IN STOCK...the "Fat-boy" Bosch HP fuel pumps with the install kit! $150 shipped!
********* LIFE TIME WARRANTY!!*********
(requires proof of the two pre-filters)
This BLOWS-AWAY the Walbro's.
NEW, Aug-09 HP Bosch DCP (dampner circumvent pump) $180.
No more headaches from a bad dampner! 
This is the EARLY 255lph Walbro Fuel Pump with the Wix Filter setup installed.
The newer Walbro (2008) is much smaller now.
NOT RECOMMENDED!
Note : Position of Hose Clamps so the Filter can be replaced from inside the hatch!
The Fuel Pump you select maybe slightly longer, the 1st section of hose is 1.75" inches long.
Cut the rest of the hose to accommodate the filter. The pump needs to be off-set to the rear so you don't kink the outlet fuel hose and you can install the plastic cover.
Before you put the fender liner back on, it's a good idea to JUMP the fuel pump and check for leaks at the pump and the hose fittings while the car is still jacked up.
I did run the little reluctor (small black box for radio suppression) NOTE: The black wire with the yellow stripe is POSITIVE. I did extend my wires and used red and black but if you cut the factory wires right at the fuel pump, this is not necessary.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE A 3/8 (10mm) in-line FILTER!
DO......CUT-OFF THE USED HOSE NIPPLE ENDS SO IT SEALS 100%!!
Anytime you suspect an eletrical part failure you want to take a voltage reading at the battery. Key off, you should have no less than 12.2 volts. Engine running, 14.2 to 14.6 volts. This car has a battery charger attached to it at another location but my BASE LINE WITH KEY OFF is 13.8 volts. |
Last edited by JustPaus on Sun Feb 27, 2005 7:49 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:40 am |
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Can YOU afford 4 gallons of fuel? Good...cause you can buy THIS TOOL for $10! Pecker-Boys.....Auto Bone.......ANOLOG ONLY (has a needle ) meters are also used to SWEEP-TEST your TPS!!
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=907
Fuel PSI at IDLE should be 35-39 PSI.! If you PINCH-CLOSED the RETURN HOSE, you will see about 90 PSI.
"TB REBUILD" topic will show you how to do this.....RIGHT!
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1127
This is the fuel pump test port located right above your air cleaner.
Remove the CAP from it and jump the positive side of the battery POSITIVE (B+) to this point. This a 14 gauge BLACK w/WHITE that BY-PASSES the ECI RELAY!
KNOW THIS......most fuel pumps draw 10 AMPS. 14 gage wire (inside the BODY) can pass 30 AMPS SAFTELY!
KEY OFF. Now LISTEN TO YOUR FUEL PUMP STANDING NEXT TO THE TANK. Does it run smooth and consistant? If not, it might not be getting the proper voltage, but the fuel pump is most likely WORN OUT!
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:42 am |
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BLACK/WHITE changes to BLACK/YELLOW wire goes "HOT" when you use the TEST PORT near the air filter can.
Open rear hatch, fold carpet forward and remove spare tire cover to expose this fuel pump cover and sending unit connector, E-17
Note the large rubber grommet below it. To replace fuel pump, unplug connector and push the grommet and harness end DOWN thru hole.
IMPORTANT!: Failure to drop the grommet and harness end thru the hole may result in RIPPING the harness end off the harness when you lower the tank!!!  I've seen it before.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:42 am |
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Large BLACK/YELLOW wire (14 gauge) is POSITIVE.
Large solid BLACK wire (14 gauge) is NEGATIVE.
You should have BATTERY VOLTAGE at the connector with the jumper wire installed.
Yes, your fuel pump should stop running when you unplug this connector.....if it runs at all.
NOW...remove the jumper wire......re-connect the E-17 harness.....VOLTAGE TEST AGAIN....when in the IGN. SWITCH START MODE (inside the E-17 harness).......and the RUN MODE to COMPARE VOLTAGE FIGURES!! This NOW sends the VOLTAGE thru your ECI/ECU RELAY....as long as there is SPARK SIGNAL PRESENT!
If you have LOST SIGNIFICANT VOLTAGE do to RESISTANCE, CHECK (OHM TEST) to the ECI relay or...........replace the ECI RELAY!
If the FRONT fusible link is WEAK or it's connectors are dirty...
THEN FULL CURRANT IS NOT REACHING THE FUEL PUMP!
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:42 am |
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GROUND #5. Behind your rear-most trim panel in the center of the car.
Fuel pump get's it's ground here.
Remove the black cover SLOWLY. Be careful not to bend it.
At the left of the pic you can see another connector to test voltage at. CORROSION=RESISTANCE=LOW VOLTAGE being deliverd to the fuel pump.
STOP THE DEVIL!  The FLOORBORAD is RE-INFORCED by the "BUCKET" for your spare tire. CUTTING-AWAY the floorboard.......to EASE changing out your fuel pump.......IS STUPIDITY! |
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:43 am |
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You MUST release residual fuel pressure by loosening at a fuel line. You can do this at the TB. If you still have fuel in the tank........remove the TB hose and place in a small fuel can. PUMP ALL THE FUEL from the tank...if you can.
The REAL-DEAL Mitsu OEM High Pressure Fuel Filter & the required 4 copper gaskets SHIPPED for $42!! PLATED...inside & out to protect your fuel injector$ from the RUST ATTACK! JUST DO IT!! |
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:44 am |
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UNLEADED FUEL IS CLEAR.... NOT ORANGE! This is CONTAMINATED FUEL!  
Place a drip pan under the fuel tank drain. A pair off rubber gloves comes in handy here. Using a 1/2 ratchet, remove the plug. There is a gasket on the plug know as a "packing". MB129662 $1. Never hurts to have a new one on hand.
If you find 'FUGLY' on the drain plug......your fuel tank will need FLUSHED or REPLACED! Starting the engine spells DISASTER! 
Most likely it'll STINK of VARNISH.....one drop on YOU, takes DAYS to make YOU SMELL BETTER! 
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:44 am |
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Disconnect all 3 lines. The flare nut is torqued to 30 foot lbs.!
The rear crossmember was removed in this car so this looks pretty easy........but it's not so easy with the crossmember in.
Using a GOOD, LONG 19mm flare-nut wrench and a GOOD, LONG 14mm flare-nut wrench unhook the fuel at this point. DO NOT CUT THIS FUEL HOSE. It sees 95 psi of pressure.
Hose clamps and unions DON'T MAKE IT. Yes, they are tight. Yes, it could be rusted. But yes, you can get it apart.
Nut-buster or some heat on the female part with a HOT AIR GUN maybe in order.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:44 am |
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Note the oulet hose has no kinks in it. How you install the fuel pump will have a bearing on this.
STOP! THINK! This union can be a PITA to remove. It is very tight and maybe rusted.
Soak it in NUT-BUSTER FIRST, making sure you squirt it, front to rear UNDER & OVER THE NUT ON THE STEEL LINE.
If you cannot get it to unscrew, cut the hose in the center and continue to drop the tank. Once tank is removed and you blow air thru the fuel line to dry it out, use a propane torch to GENTLY HEAT the female side to make it expand. If you ruin the end of the steel line.....you just created a bunch more work. You'll need to cut the line back and re-flare it.
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Last edited by JustPaus on Fri Apr 01, 2005 3:06 am; edited 1 time in total |
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:45 am |
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SPECIAL NOTE: Rubber fuel lines FALL-APART ON THE INSIDE.....same as BRAKE & CLUTCH HOSES.
TRUST ME......IT WORKS!
I run it up to MAX.......1000*F to make the female nut EXPAND.
This is the FACTORY UNION and it was VERY TIGHT 30 ft-lbs but it feels like much more! ....not much rust. I had to heat it up to get it apart!!
I only removed the steel line to make it easy to take pics.
You can HEAT the FEMALE NUT even if there is fuel inside the line.
Remove the LR tire and the fender liner.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:45 am |
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That's your fuel pump in there. No, it won't come out of there.
"I'll just cut a BIGGER HOLE in the floor-board.......cause I have to REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP FREQUENTLY."
Had YOU followed the instructions......"CHECKED-CLEAN & FLUSHED YOUR 20 year-old FUEL TANK".....you wouldn't be a HACK ARTIST!
Jainsworth said he did that silly trick ONCE.....followed with..."I'll never do that again." EXACTLY! All he needed to do was JACK IT UP HIGHER......or LOOSE WEIGHT! Just kiddin, Jimmy!
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:46 am |
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Loosen or remove these 2 bolts so the filler neck can be moved more easily.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:46 am |
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Remove the flat and lock-washer from one front nut and one rear nut and reinstall the nuts a couple threads. Now remove the rest of the nuts.
This will lower the tank about ONE INCH to give you access to another bolt.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:46 am |
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Remove the 3 bolts that retain the filler neck reinforcement. This is why you lowered the tank one inch. One bolt is right against the frame.
There are SMALL SPACERS UNDER THE BOLTS. WATCH FOR THEM . They will fall out. Back off the hose clamps from the TANK SIDE. Some WD-40 and a screwdriver will help break the rubber free from the tank.
Once you have BLED-OFF RESIDUAL FUEL PRESUURE:
1. the harness lowerd thru the floor,
2. the 3 fuel lines unhooked,
3. the filler neck unhooked,
4. all retaining bolts remove, the tank can be lowered. When empty, it's not heavy....35 lbs.
A floor-jack...or just lowering on your BENT KNEES......CAKE!
With experience......20 minutes on the floor!
NOW......LOOK UP INSIDE THE FILLER NECK FOR RUST 
If it's rusty....it'll contaminate the TANK AGAIN! REPLACE IT!
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:47 am |
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A close-up of the bolt that is against the frame.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:47 am |
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Remove the plastic cover.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:47 am |
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Remove the screw that holds down the reluctor (noise suppressor), or cut wires off as close to the FUEL PUMP as you can. |
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:48 am |
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Remove inlet hose. Conical filter will probably be removed/unsnapped from the pump when you do so.
So it will be INSIDE THE HOSE.
It will ONLY snap into a FACTORY FUEL PUMP! SO......DO NOT USE IT AGAIN IF YOU USE A DIFFERANT PUMP!!
IT CAN RESTRICT FUEL FLOW IF USED COCK-EYED!
NOTE: The conical screen filter ONLY FITS the Nippon fuel pump inlet nipple....and are now obsolete.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:48 am |
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Remove fuel pump retaining screw.
If you try to unscrew the DAMPNER at this point you might damage the rubber mounting points.
Rusttttttttttt..... DO NOT PANIC! We'ver got PLENTY of RUST FREE replacement parts!
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:49 am |
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Note the two gaskets marked in red. They are differant. IF INSTALLED IN THE REVERSE ORDER.....YOU CAN NOT PUSH FUEL THRU THE DAMPNER!!!
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:49 am |
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GENTLY support the pump with a vise (or like) and using a 22mm wrench (or 7/8 ) unscrew the dampner.
CAUTION: If you attempt to remove the dampner while the pump is still mounted to the tank....chances are, you'll bend the mounting bracket.
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Last edited by JustPaus on Sun Feb 27, 2005 7:57 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:50 am |
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TESTED...CHOICE....fuel pump dampners $45...shipped.
Corrosion...rust...failed rubber blatter...LEAKS FUEL or resrticts fuel flow.
What you can not see...... nor figure out, "WHY IS IT LEAN?"
This is the proper order of parts. Your new pump will come with new gaskets.
INSTALL IN THIS EXACT ORDER CAUSE FUEL FLOWS THRU THE OPENINGS!!! |
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:50 am |
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Remove the screws from the pick up tube and remove the pick up.
Or...check it while the fuel tank is installed. If this car has been sitting for a couple of years, DON'T TRY TO START IT!!!
20 years old fuel tank......very often needs FLUSHED!!! This will wipe out the fuel pump, filters & INJECTORS.............WHICH LEANS-OUT.......AND WIPES OUT YOUR ENGINE!!!
"My tank was not that nasty.....so I didn't FLUSH IT."
Fuel TANKS.....are NOT the only place where FUEL LAYS STAGNET! |
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:51 am |
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The in tank filter snaps into place. With a pair of pliers remove it.
Run a coat hanger thru ALL lines to make sure they are CLEAN...RUST FREE
Later in this topic.....you'll see OTHER PLACES where DRIED FUEL is blocking the steel lines.
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JustPaus
Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Sun Feb 27, 2005 5:51 am |
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FAILURE TO UNDERSTAND..... The in-tank filter is made of NYLON...which will DESENIGRATE it's TIGHT-FIT AROUND THE STEEL INLET PIPE!
The fuel will travel threw the path of LEAST RESISTANT...that would be the TOP HOLE....CIRCUMVENTING THE SCREEN FILTER!
Do *YOU* want those chunks of NYLON to enter your *NEW* fuel pump? How bout.....you buy a NEW ONE!
There is no point in trying to repair this $12 filter.
Relacement filler neck hose are $12, in stock & ready to ship.
Notorious cracked hose!
Are you FRUSTRATED by replacing the fuel pump over & over?
Do it RIGHT...DO IT ONCE! In-tank fliters $12 and 12mm in-out filters $25 (replaces the OEM obsolete "conicals") are the way to SAVE YOUR FUEL PUMP FROM DESTRUCTION! $37 shipped for the pair.
You have a INSPECTION PLATE in your HATCH! *THAT* is the purpose of the inspection plate...to REPLACE YOUR FILTERS!!
Email or call Professor Quest at (505) 299-9012
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