"NEWX2" KYBs FRONT STRUTS, BRAKES, BEARINGS, HUBS

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Too many "left-overs" are still in the inventory.

These ARE...the REAL-DEAL, KYB's GR-2 NITROGEN GAS FILLED, MADE IN JAPAN and are wanting a new home.

Instructions & hardware included.

These factory KYBs are FAR SUPERIOR than Gabriel & Monroe...which will be deleted/obsolete soon enough too...cause KYB already stopped.

Yes....sets of FRONT & REARS are ready to ship until the supply runs out!

PM Professor Quest to GRAB-EM' before it's TOO LATE! Rolling Eyes

Indications that BRAKE FLUID is dripping onto the steering COUPLER/DAMPNER (under the rubber boot) will DESTROY your DAMPNER if this is not CORRECTED in due time. Shocked

FOR SALE! Most of the parts in this topic are available!
Bent STRUT/SPINDEL ass? NO PROBLEM! Trashed HUB? NO PROBLEM!
Rotors, calipers, HOSES.........we've got you coverd! (505) 299-9012

ONE PEICE HOSES......the only way to FLY!

Any service operation that MAY require you to PUSH BRAKE FLUID back to the master cylinder reservior, which strut replacement, brake hose replacement and brake jobs will, remove the lid from the reservior.

NOTE: This operation can be performed leaving the caliper, rotor and bearing hub in place on the strut. I have done it that way myself. Or you can remove just the caliper to avoid having to bleed the system. But there is a snag. While aligning the spring seats top and bottom, you now have TRIPLE the weight to deal with and end up RE-COMPRESSING the spring to get it seated correctly. This created a situation where the compressor almost flew off the spring. NOT GOOD!! You can decide for yourself, but it never hurts to do a COMPLETE JOB. Also see "Wheel Bearings" for tips on how to spot a bad hub. New topic coming soon. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Mitsu screwed-up in 88. This TSB was issued.

A TSB was issued over the DEFECTIVE PARTS installed by Mitsu. Rolling Eyes

Replace with these NEW P/Ns! Wink

Notice the bladder under the lid. It may or may not have been extended.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

You might want to remove the bladder and clean both parts in hot, soapy water. Rinse and blow-dry or air-dry. Note there are alignment tabs for the bladder.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Replace the lid, but do not tighten it.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Notice I have placed a 1/4 inch drive, 5/16 socket into the caliper and using a screwdriver inserted into one of the cooling vents in the rotor, I can press the caliper piston back into the caliper. This will make the pads relax so the caliper can be removed. You only need to move the piston a small amount. You only need to do this if your rotors and pads are really worn.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Notice cracks in brake hose. Remove the bolt from the strut.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remove the 2 bolts maked in red. Be careful not to damage the rubber boots. The bellows will not usually turn. DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG FROM THE BRAKE HOSE!! Hang it up with a peice of coat-hanger. Wink

Raybestos rubber boot kit #H18007 net $11.29 (fits 2 wheels)

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The calipers slide on these bolts. They need to be clean and lubed. Notice the LIP at the bottom of the threads. The rubber boots snap over this lip.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remove caliper MOUNT bolts marked with a "2".

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remove caliper mount and pads.

Raybestos front pad # BMD258 net $30.35

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Note postion of ANTI-RATTLE SPRINGS.

Raybestos anti-rattle spring kit #H15577 net $22.43 (fits 2 wheels)

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The other side.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remove 5 E-clips and remove rotor.

Raybestos front rotor # 31087 net $24.65

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

View with rotor removed.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

GENTLY tap a sharp chiesel around grease cap to remove. GO EASY, don't bend it.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remove cotter-pin and lock cap.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remove spindle nut.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Place parts on paper towel. Avoid getting dirt or sand on parts.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

If repacking wheel bearings use a pry-bar to remove grease seal. This is optional. More info on the bearing hubs can be found at "Wheel Bearings", a new topic still in the works. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

BE AWARE! A FRONT VIBRATION....it's not *JUST* the tie-rod ends or centerlink or the idler arm or the coupler/dampner that goes SOUTH!

I have seen this on several Starquest.

Remove 3 bolts to remove stone shield. Removing the stone shield does 2 things. A.....you won't BEND IT, B.....easier access to the lower strut bolts. Wink

[size=18]

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remove 2 lower strut bolts.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remove 3 upper strut NUTS.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Place a pry-bar against the cross-member and push down on the control arm. Do this IN FRONT of the strut and press down on the strut bar/radius bar. This will lower the control arm slightly and allow you to remove the strut assembly. It maybe rusted into place so you might need to break it loose by driving a chisel between the ball joint and the strut.

NOTE: there are two dowel pins in the ball joint. So the control arm needs to drop at least 1/2 inch to clear the dowels.

TIP: leave the 3 nuts on top tight until you SNAP the strut free of the ball joint, then remove the nuts........then the strut. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The strut assembly removed.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Note the dowel-pins and the rust. Clean this surface and silicone it on re-assembly. This will keep water from entering it. If you need to replace the ball joints.......now is the time.