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Professor Quest
Joined: 09 Jul 2004
Posts: 5085
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Posted:
Wed Jan 12, 2005 12:00 am |
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Too many "left-overs" are still in the inventory.
These ARE...the REAL-DEAL, KYBs NITROGEN GAS FILLED, MADE IN JAPAN and are wanting a new home.
Instructions & hardware included.
These factory KYBs are FAR SUPERIOR than Gabriel & Monore...which will be deleted/obsolete soon enough too...cause KYB already stopped.
Yes....sets of FRONT & REARS are ready to ship until the supply runs out!
PM Professor Quest to GRAB-EM' before it's TOO LATE!
FOR SALE! CROSS MEMBERS-CONTROL ARMS-SRUT ass.
RUST FREE-NO DAMAGE-FRONT OR REAR PARTS!
(505) 299-9012
Front cross members $125 shipped
Front strut/spindle housings $75 shipped
Control arms $75 shipped
Calipers, rotors, hubs.....we have it all!
Does your car WHEEL-HOP or REAR-STEER? It's probably worn out suspension bushings. Replace them with Stedebani's polys. GP price $179. (850) 984-3500 x227 (Steve). Kit also includes front control arm bushings and strut rod bushings.
I'll also replace the TORQUE TUBE bushings and DIFF bushings.
NO!!! You don't need to pull the entire rearend to do this. I'm merely up-grading to an 88 rearend. Front polys are under another topic.
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Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Jul 17, 2008 6:51 pm; edited 13 times in total |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Jan 12, 2005 12:31 am |
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Your Diff is equipped with a magnetic drain plug. Good idea to drain it first. You should only see tiny particles of worn metal on the magnet.
Note location of drain plug. (above)
Note location of fill plug (above) Fill with 80w90 "limited slip" gear oil. First install a bottle of LSD additive. This will keep the clutches from CHATTERING
87 rear end with fuel tank removed. Note how easy it is to change the rear diff mounts with tank removed. MB003170 x2 $23.27 ea. I'll be changing this out for an 88 rear end and installing POLY BUSHINGS.
Junk yard cut the parking brake cables off.  |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Jan 12, 2005 12:33 am |
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***************************************************
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Rear cover gasket MB160579 $5.40
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The upper BOLT attaches the bracket to the diff. The lower NUT is the upper Diff mount NUT. Black cylinder is the Diff vent and is siliconed into place. Diff vent MB160364
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These two nuts retain the rear Diff mounts from the bottom. They can be removed when the control arm is installed using a universal socket. It is a PITA, however.
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These 4 nuts retain the front of the Torque Tube. There are upper and lower TT mounts. Upper MB242150 x2 $11.60 ea. Lower MB242151 x2 $11.60 ea. Often these nuts are loose or the mounts are worn out. The TT mounts are NOT included with the poly kit. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Jan 12, 2005 12:35 am |
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***************************************************
Bolts on the right are the rear TT mounts. There is no gasket or seal at this union.
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FRONT TT bolts
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Lower view of FRONT crossmember mount. The mount was pressed in from this side and needs to be remover from this side.
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Upper view of Front cross member mount.
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Red holes indicate mounting locations of REAR crossmember. No rubber mounts at this location. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:41 pm |
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The DUST COVER is shot. If you are replacing the rear strut assemblies, you might want order MB110930 at $6.62 each. X2 |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:42 pm |
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Rear ISOLATOR MB110929 $39.47 each. These are built stonger than the fronts. Inspect for rubber damage while still in the car under load. Removing the top 3 nuts will disconnect the top. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:44 pm |
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Rear strut lower attachment point. Remove two 12mm bolts to unhook brake lines. Then REMOVE the two 17mm bolts. Finally.....REMOVE the 17mm THRU bolt (no you can't just loosen it) and nut and drive a screw driver or chiesel into the slot to open it a small amount. Remove strut.
WARNING: FAILURE TO HAVE A WIDE ENOUGH CHISEL TO SPREAD THE OPENING ENOUGH WILL MAKE THIS A PITA! THERE WILL BE SOME RUST HOLDING THE STRUT INTO THE HOLE AS WELL. WD-40, NUT BUSTER A MUST! REMOVE REAR SWAY BAR LINK PIN FIRST!!! |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:45 pm |
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88/89 Have 6 bolt flanges. All other years have 4 bolt flanges. The spindels are also larger. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:46 pm |
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Using a chisel or a punch, mark both the axle and the hub before using a chisel to pop the apart. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:47 pm |
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Now move flange FORWARD |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:48 pm |
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Wire brush before reassembly. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:48 pm |
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This surface too. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:49 pm |
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A crow-bar (pictured) or bent screw driver will push the axle out of the Diff. Be careful not to bend the metal dust shield. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:50 pm |
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Notice the CIR-CLIPS near the tips of the axles. (pic below) The manual says to replace these, but you can use them again if they are not damaged and the axle SNAPS into place when you reinstall it. A gentle push on the axle when installing it is fine. A new cir-clip will take a little more effort. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:51 pm |
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Examine the splines, bearing and seal surface for wear. The cir-clip on the end is usually in good shape and can be re-used. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:52 pm |
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Better view of Diff mounts. Also.replace the axle seals . MB393929 $10.00 ea. See "Differential & Torque Tube" for replacement info.  |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:52 pm |
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Rear-inner control arm bushing. Known as "B" bushing. RH side. This is a "CAMMED" bolt for adjusting the rear toe. Will also alter the camber....but setting the toe is what it is used for. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:55 pm |
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Same on the LEFT HAND side. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:56 pm |
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Another view of "B" bushing. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:56 pm |
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These 8" bolts are lots of fun to remove. Stick around...I'll show you how. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:57 pm |
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Notice the THRU bolt half way down. The 8" bolt is NOTCHED to accept this thru bolt. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:58 pm |
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FRONT inner bushing. Known as "A" bushing. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:59 pm |
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Rear sway-bar LINK PIN. Replace the rubber bushings or use Polys. Pep-boys. Energy Suspension # 9-8105GC $10 |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 8:00 pm |
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PAY ATTENTION!! These two bolts are differant. MAKE NOTES or re-install. They need to be CLEANED and re-lubbed....so do there holes. Also note the pad PRELOAD CLIPS are differant ..top to bottom. ALWAYS smart to mark parts. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Jan 17, 2005 8:01 pm |
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REMOVE. |
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