SENSORS/SENDERS & ADAPTERS New X3

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Can you convert you block threads to NPT 1/8"-27 without taking apart the engine? HELL YES! I've done it many times!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

*DRY* filings are easy to VACUUM them away! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Is this just TOO high tech to DIY?

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The oil passage is 1" away. NO WAY the filings are gonna fall into it! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Jumping into the O2 single wire (that is also GROUND SHIELDED) for a A/F meter is a mistake. That is WHY it is routed AWAY from the main harness........all by itself. Rolling Eyes

A better idea of how to 'tap' into the O2 circut using GROUND SHILEDED lead from your A/F meter. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

This WHITE WIRE is the 02 sensor wire AFTER it has cleared the GROUNDING AREA. This is WHERE it's best to attach a narrow band gauge too.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The Bosch 02! $48 shipped. Contact Professor Quest. PM, email
or call (505) 299-9012

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

A common failure of the TPS (throttle postion sensor).....from a parked/stored car, or just WORN-OUT around 80K miles. It is a MECHANICAL DRIVEN RESISTANCE SENDER to you ECU! A REOSTAT!

Proper way to "INSPECT" or TEST your TPS: Wink

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=907

We remove them from LOW MILES "salvaged/totaled cars"......inspect/test them....and sell them for $75. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

STOP

READ ALL

Mitsu spread this over several pages.... Rolling Eyes

The ISC/MPS & the TPS etc....several pages with more details....kinda like this manual. Laughing

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

To test the ISC nose/idle switch:

* Engine is OFF. ISC "motor" connector is totally unplugged.
* Set your test meter to measure OHMs (resistance) on it's least sensitive scale. On analog meters, that's usually the "x1" scale; on digital meters it's usually the "200" scale.
* Connect the meter's black/- lead to the battery "-" post.
* Connect the meter's red/+ lead to the nose/idle switch connector on the connector coming FROM the ISC/nose switch assembly - do NOT connect it to the connector from the main wiring harness.
* With the throttle in the idle position, you should read ZERO ohms. On a digital meter, it should read 0.0 ohms (or something close to zero anyway... under 1.0 ohms). On analog meters, the needle should swing all the way to the right.
* Now open the throttle plates slightly: have a helper push on the gas pedal about half an inch, or reach around the back of the throttle body and turn the linkage a bit... or just push on the exposed throttle cable going into the throttle body assembly. The meter should instantly jump to INFINITE ohms. On a digital meter, it'll show OPEN, nothing at all, dashes, etc - whatever it shows when the meter leads aren't connected to anything. On an analog meter, the needle should swing all the way to the left.
* Release the throttle and make sure the meter goes back to zero ohms. Repeat the last few steps to make sure the switch RELIABLY and CONSISTENTLY responds.

Another way to test the idle/nose switch is to leave the ISC/nose switch connector plugged in. Start the engine and let it idle. With the test meter set to DC VOLTS now (not AC... that won't work) hook the black lead to battery "-" again and the red lead to the idle/nose switch wire. You'll read zero volts with the throttle at idle (since the swtich is "shorting" to ground at idle when it works right) and either 5 or 12 volts when you rev the engine a little.

For folks not used to using "multimeters" to test volts/ohms, a few basic guidelines:
1: VOLT testing is done with the engine running and the connectors/wires/parts connected normally. The meter leads are "tapped" into the circuit to monitor it. Use the DC volts scales for most tests on cars. The meter will monitor/read the voltage IN THE CIRCUIT; this voltage is provided by something in the circuit - not provided by the meter. Testing voltage is similar to testing vacuum levels on a running engine: you have to "T" into the wiring to get a reading; the guage just shows you "what's in there."

2: RESISTANCE (ohms) testing is done with the component being tested OUT of the circuit. That means the wires to/from it, or the connectors, are DISCONNECTED. For parts with only two leads (like temp sensors which have one lead plus the "body" of the sensor screwed into the engine) disconnecting just ONE wire is enough. For multi-wire sensors (like the throttle position sensor) it's better to unplug all wires. The meter leads are connected right to the part being tested. For resistance testing, the meter SUPPLIES THE VOLTAGE needed to test the part. This is like testing vacuum actuated parts: you disconnect the vac hose to the part (e.g. the distributor vacuum advancer) and instead apply your own vacuum source to see what the part does.

When testing RESISTANCE, you have to be careful of the voltage injected by your meter; analog meters especially can spit out a fairly high voltage that'll damage the ECU or "active" sensors like the airflow sensor ("active sensor" means parts that have electronic circuitry inside them). Digital meters generally inject lower/safer voltages when doing resistance testing.

Also, most analog meters have the injected voltage "backwards" in polarity on the leads: the red lead is negative, the black lead is positive. This backwards polarity can be even more dangerous than the actual voltage; reverse polarity fries many electronic parts instantly.

Simple sensors (throttle position sensor, idle/nose switch, the various oil/water temp sensors) won't be damaged by any analog meter.
The airflow sensor, ECU, cruise computer, a/c computer, ETACS computer, etc. are far more vulnerable. Unless you know what you're doing, testing those parts with a meter set to RESISTANCE is generally incorrect - and often dangerous to the circuitry.

mike c.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

The signals that are sent.....are only as good as the MEANS by which they are transmitted. Rolling Eyes

On this application...the battery is just up-front of this connector. This is a 87 vintage.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Do you need to remove it from the housing.....or replace the connector? No, not really.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

These are your tools. Wear GOGGLES & GLOVES....and DO NOT WHIP YOUR HANDS ON CLOTHES THAT YOU WANT TO KEEP! Laughing

You can: just pull-back the silicone seal....and DIP-IT!

Just....DO NOT BREATH IT! Shocked

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Bout 30 seconds into the PURE acid..........

Then about a minute into a mix of HOT WATER & BAKING SODA=
ONE HELL OF A CLEAN TERMINAL! Twisted Evil