SENSORS/SENDERS & ADAPTERS New X3

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Young mechanics are gonna screw-up from time to time.
Yes...he did remove the sender and wire-brushed the terminals.

But using TEFLON TAPE to seal it back up is KNOWN to INTERUPT the GROUND that the HOUSING would want....or maybe just weaken it.

That means....the TEMP GAUGE IN YOUR DASH COULD BE LYING TO YOU!

Use the PASTE TYPE of Teflon sealant! Wink

This FURTHER repair... Laughing

created a OVER-DRIVE BUTTON that works
FLAWLESS UNDER YOUR COMMAND.

Avoid going into O.D. unless the engine is warmed-up a lil'. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Using a STAND ALONE VACUUM GAUGE, as suggested in the FSM, while *DRIVING* the car... Rolling Eyes

gives MUCH MORE *REAL-DEAL* INFO....right-n-ya-face!

You can "T" into ANYPLACE....like here to the FPR, your DISTRIBUTOR, etc etc.

It is very simple....to insert washers or opened-end shims with a longer bolt to route the hose without pinching it. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

In this example...it is BOOST PRESSURE (not vacuum) I want to view. You can purchase a VACUUM/PRESSURE STAND-ALONE GAUGE at
Pep-Boys....Auto Zone, etc for $25.

Anybody....that wants to "TUNE" ANY ENGINE, this is *THE* tool to own!

Because USERS of the "Krank Vent" $y$tem.... Rolling Eyes

*CLAIM* that a CRANK CASE BUILDS VACUUM...while the TURBOCHARGER BUILDS BOOST... Laughing

you would "T" into the VENT HOSE (rear of the valve cover) to see if there was any TRUTH to that line of NONSENSE. Idea

Some guys use the DIPSTICK HOUSING to monitor the crankcase vacuum/pressure. *TEST* wherever you like. Wink

The VACUUM/PRESSURE *FIGURES*....while *DRIVING* the car....is WHAT YOU WANT! *NOT*....leaning over a fender. Laughing

Now.....*VENTING* a crankcase, goes into GREAT DETAIL and shows MANY OPTIONS that you have here:
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1218

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

bump

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

This topic further breaks down the cooling system electrics & more:
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1067

Some of these thermosensors (start at $30) ain't worth a DIME!
Others can retail as high as $122! Shocked

That Japan aftermarket sensor (far right) MB007639 I purchased for $26.....sept-4-07
but it was the LAST ONE that "Worldpac" had. Crying or Very Sad

More info follows

The fatter looking ones actually have a spring-loaded, copper contact surface inside them... Rolling Eyes

(mechanical type) VS. the OEM type SKINNY one, that has a TRANSISTOR solderd inside it. (electronic type)
The skinny ones happen to be 100% more reliable than those CHEAP-ass fat ones. (you get what you pay for Rolling Eyes

)

"I have installed two, LOWER TEMP sensors (into the radiator) without a jumper wire upgrade to have both primary & secondary fan engage".

I have read that several times....and tried that years ago. Rolling Eyes

What *I* see is the seondary fan engages FIRST, and the primary fan DID NOT ENGAGE AT ALL, cause NOW the primary thermosensor is cooled-off too fast too.

And....those cheap-ass thermosensors might work fine when NEW, but shortly thereafter they will FAIL YOU!

Now...half-way up the factory temp gauge means something IS NOT DOING IT'S JOB! You should be BELOW 1/3 of the way up the factory gauge ALL the time!

"I got one from 'Cool Cat', the Jaguar performance guys that worked fine for me". Rolling Eyes

Oh really? Pick-up your phone and talk to them to find out WHOM builds those. (as I did) You are gonna hear the very same story.
"We are switching to ANOTHER supplier from too many come-backs from a failed thermosensor!"

Again...you get what you pay for....a cracked cylinder head! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

The very reason that the primary cooling fan is worn-out at about 100k miles...is because it cycles ON very often.
The motor is fine, cept the BRUSHES are worn-down! Rolling Eyes

Now...with a JUMPER WIRE UPGRADE, it cools this engine MUCH FASTER so the "ON" fan operation is now a lil' more restricted. Wink

Keep this in mind....you had EMISSIONS to deal with = MORE ENGINE TEMPS! Rolling Eyes

"Hey, I RE-WIRED MINE so the fans run 24-7 when the ignition is on!"

That is the LAST thing I would do to my ALTERNATOR & my BATTERY & my FUSIBLE LINKS..... Rolling Eyes

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

"UPGRADING" your Alternator? Rolling Eyes

A CI Alternator rear bracket/ground.

Note metal rear bracket/ground

A CS Alternator rear bracket.

Note metal rear bracket/ground.

Wowwwwwww, that looks SO HARD to fabricate that rear bracket. Shocked

How many HOLES are NOT USED in the side of a 2.6L? Rolling Eyes

I wonder....do they sell ELECTRICAL CONDUIT at HOME DE-BLOW:lol: Laughing

Do they sell FLAT STOCK STEEL at HOME DE-BLOW?
What about.....nuts, bolts & washers? Rolling Eyes

A 105 amp Alternator....under a LOAD... Shocked

NEEDS STABILITY Exclamation

Note metal rear bracket/ground.
The LOADED end of a Alternator is the rear-end housing!
Without a METAL BRACKET...the only thing that holds-it-together are the VERY SMALL 3 BOLTS! And NONE of those bolts are gonna -GROUND- that rear housing to the engine block! Rolling Eyes

Remember....only 2 amps will be RECHARGING your battery. The rest of the AMP OUTPUT is what your ACCESSORIES are demanding from the Alternator.

Note metal rear bracket/ground.
More info here:

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1180

Btw...buying a "NEW" Alternator from Auto Boners, Pecker Boys, Advanced, Joe Blow's, etc etc.... Rolling Eyes

better have it into their computers so you can get a WARRANTY REPLACEMENT ASAP cause the "NEW" Alternator is a hunk-o-crap Alternator. Rolling Eyes

Been there...done that,
but won't ever do it again! "Life Time Warranty" means NADDA to me!

REBUILT AC Delco Alternators will last *YOU* MANY YEARS!! Wink

Ask for one at Carquest and tell them you WANT a REAL AC Delco rebuilt! Bout $96!

But odds are...you ain't using the FACTORY 75 AMPS in the first place! Laughing

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

And just so EVERYBODY knows...PROBING for a signal with the WRONG TEST LIGHT (the one on the right "CAUTION NOT FOR COMPUTERS") can DAMAGE your ECU by *SHORTING* you create (it passes right threw the bulb...hello) is "Not good Maverick.......NOT GOOD!" Shocked

The one on the LEFT....BINGO, RINGO! Wink

*YOU* supply both negative & positive via the aligators....that makes a red light turn-on to tell you...your powerd.

Now...there is ANOTHER red bulb that turns-on when you probe a HOT POSITIVE...and A GREEN BULB turns-on if you probe a GOOD NEGATIVE.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

One more time..... Laughing

This twin pin was only used in the 88 & 89s...that also had a TWIN TERMINAL TEMP SENDER.

The TWIN PIN CONNECTOR was just BLUE ELECTRICAL tapped inside the harness on the EARLY cars...so it wasn't used on EARLY cars.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

When EMISSION CRAP REMOVED..... Rolling Eyes

PAY ATTENION HERE! Rolling Eyes

This SINGLE nipple is full time manifold vacuum/boost.

It is the SORCE for the HVAC unit (heater, defrost, a/c) and the crusie control too.
In the right-rear corner of the engine bay you'll note lil' white CHECK VALVES (one way valves) so BOOST...can't reach those accessories.
1. PORTED vacuum (only sees vacuum after the butterfly opens, used just for the Dizzy ONLY)
3. MANIFOLD vacuum (full time vacuum but is restricted to about 12 Hg)
2. MANIFOLD vacuum (full time...no restriction, BOV ok))
4. MANIFOLD vaccum (full time, no restrictions, HVAC controls and crusie control, BOV ok (known to be blown-off from boost)

[/

The VACUUM RESERVOIR PURPOSE (not pictured here) is to SUSTAND a longer duration of the NEEDED vacuum to operate the crusie control until the ELECTRIC VACUUM PUMP (not picture here) turns itself on while PULLING A LONG HILL WHILE UNDER BOOST!

The VACUUM that is already in the HVAC unit is NOT GONNA BLEED-OFF because the one-way-valves ain't gonna allow that!

Meaning...if you have removed the crusie control...you need a vacuum RESERVOIR like a kick-n-da-nuts! Same with the electric vacuum pump and it's relay and it's SWITCH! (located in the RR corner of the engine bay)

Anybody that states otherwise....is a IDIOT, or just haven't done it themselfs. Rolling Eyes

I live at nearly 6,000ft ASL! I am DOWN 6" of vacuum ALREADY!
(read just below the blue highlited area)

Btw...that vacuum hose is NOTORIOUS to have been BLOWN-OFF that nipple because BOOST pushes it off! Hence.....flare it as it is shown in the pic. FIXED! Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

HOW....would your ECU know you are running TOO COLD?

Install a FULL-TIME LED (light emitting diode) from the "self-diagnosis" port.

Just inside your glovebox (top side)...you can pop-it loose.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Once the engine is warmed...it should emit a solid, red light.

NOTE...the "X" position (in the diagram) to ID which is negative
and which is positive! Rolling Eyes

This is simple enough to understand....please read ALL of it! Rolling Eyes

If all of a sudden....the engine cooled-off a lil' too much, The solid red light
might flash 1 blink......3 times, cause the O2 went cold.

If it flashed 7 blinks....3 times, cause the CTS went too cold.

DO NOT ASSUME those sensors went bad. Rolling Eyes

Just a bad, corroded
HARNESS CONNECTOR could be the culprit! Rolling Eyes

You can lenghten the wires and install it nex to your stereo. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Brake booster nipple shows NPT 1/8"-27 pitch.

PCV nipple shows BSP 1/8"-28 pitch.

Because there are several different THREADS PER INCH, "PITCH" of SAE & METRIC.......straight vs. pipe thread, It helps to have the TOOLS to ID which is which.

And, because you have ALLAN drive plugs made of STEEL vs. BRASS which have different LENGHTS.... Rolling Eyes

you could easily become confused and DAMAGE softer metals which could create a LEAK. Rolling Eyes

Here, the plug in the TB shows to be a 1/4"-18......but most replacement plugs
are found to be a lil' FATTER. Therefore you would want to TAP IT a lil' deeper
so you don't end-up with a fuel leak when using a PLUG that you provided, locally. Shocked

DO NOT.......assume they are METRIC because it came from a IMPORT CAR!
You need to TEST....each and everyone to VERIFY which it really is.

Example: Both of these pipe threads needed TAPPED a lil' deeper (1/8" & 3/8" pipe) to drive the plug in deeper.........for a GOOD seal and a CLEAN look. Wink

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Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Turbo oil supply port is NPT 1/4"-18 but not tapped as deep
as most adapters are. We recommend tapping it a lil' deeper so you
enclose more threads. Wink

You'll see what we mean when you try it.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Converting to a AN fitting.

Remove the oil filter adapter so you may CLEAN the filings from tapping it.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Indexing to see how DEEP you may get the fitting into
the oil filter adapter.

The new fitting would only go-in 1 1/4 turns before it became tight!
That is not NEARLY enough thread penitration.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

1/4"-18 NPT tapping tools can be purchased at Sears, Lowes etc.

Give it 5 full rotations...then clean-away the filings.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Remove the oil pressure sensor.
Using carb cleaner to desolve the lubricant......and compressed air,
cover that red hole with a FINDER....

.......blow-clean the oil filter adapter.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Once the filings have been cleaned-away.....test fit your DEPTH.
It should be 4 threads DEEP. If not........TAP IT FURTHER.

Once you have installed for "WET" applications (it carries engine oil)
wrap the fitting 360* TWICE and install it.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Because all of these pipe plugs are 1/4"-18....but are made from DIFFERENT materials & manufactors, the are NOT ID in OUTSIDE DIAMETER. Rolling Eyes

That would also be true of ALL FITTINGS!