DISTRIBUTOR REBUILD & COIL TESTING

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Email: waynescoolworld@netzero.net
(For any questions, parts orders, or for general communication)

or Call (505) 299-9012
(Parts Orders Only)

I STOCK 2.6 TURBO REBUILT DISTRIBUTORS: # PQ-D1000
which use ALL MITSU PARTS!

This Dist. re-curve device is old....but works KILLER!! Twisted Evil

TURBO DIST. ARE DIFFERANT and bear a DIFFERANT PART NUMBER!!
The vacuum control is TURBO ONLY and so are the WEIGHTS, the CAM, the SPRINGS inside your Dizzy!

When we speak of "TUNING"......it a begins right here. Do you think your Dist was ever rebuilt? You can't begin to make your car run correctly if this Dizzy is on the FRITZ!
CAUTION! Ebay stores are dumping N/A dizzys and claim they are TURBO dizzys!
It goes way beyound springs & VC units! Beck Arnley builds NOTHING!

You don't want a CHINESE Dizzy do ya?
If the price sounds too good to be true...it damn sure is! Rolling Eyes

Rebuilt 2.6L *TURBO* Dizzys using nothing but genuine Mitsu's parts! Twisted Evil

$175 shipped EXCHANGED. (no exchange? add $125 for lack of a core) much cheaper to ship your core!

CAUTION!: Rolling Eyes

Many sellers of rebuilt Distributors do NOT have "TURBO" designated rebuilt units! We stock NOTHING BUT....TURBO DIZZYS and are ID by the number on them...and the right parts within them!!! Wink

Email:
waynescoolworld@netzero.net or call (505) 299-9012

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

As indicated....this is TDC. BUT...if the cam gear DOWEL PIN is not very close to 12 o'clock....then it's on the EXHAUST TDC. Wink

Place the engine at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the COMPRESSION stroke. You will know you are on the compression stroke if the cam dowel pin is at the NEARLY 12 o'clock position.

CAUTION: Before removing the Dist, place the crank at TDC on the compression stroke and remove the Dist cap. The rotor should be facing the #1 spark plug wire. If not.......you are on the EXHAUST STROKE.

Roll-pin and drive gear. Known as "Coupling Set" MD607226. When the crank is at TDC on the compression stroke........line up these marks and install. The rotor will be facing the #1 spark plug wire on the Dist cap. Simply take a Magic Marker and mark the Dist housing where it lines up with the #1 wire.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

First test........Mechanical advance test. Rotate the rotor clock-wise till it will no longer rotate.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Now release the rotor. It should snap back quickly and cleanly. Now remove the rotor.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Sorry about the focus. The slot marked off in red is the TRAVEL of turning the rotor.
All the way to the left is the STOP POSITION. As you can see...........the rotor returned but FAILED to return all the way. So.....this cars INITIAL TIMING would VARI. Not good!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Note the rubber O-ring, that seals the Dist cap is part of the "WIRE ASSY, LEAD." (p/n MD611533)
........not a seperate part. Also note the red marks. Left mark is with no vacuum......right mark is when there is vacuum applied to the Dist.

"Pick-up" coil is sold as a "set" with the "Wire Assy, Lead"
P/N MD611532 Much better part than aftermarket replacement. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Vacuum Advance unit under full vacuum.
Mitsu MD611360 or MD611769

Carquest/Standard Ignition VC269 $85.94 retail

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Now........when your car sees BOOST........it RETARDS THE TIMING.....the 3rd mark FURTHER left. Sucking or applying compressed air without removing the Dist cap to VERIFY this is actually happining is a waste of time. You need to SEE it works correctly.

CAUTION: Buying a "Rebuilt" Dist from a store that does NOT DESIGNATE a "TURBOCHARGED ONLY" application is a MISTAKE. It should have a DIFFERENT p/n on the Dist. and the number ON THE DIST. ITSELF!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The WEIGHTS...the SPRINGS...the CAM...the SLOT the pin travels threw... the VACUUM CONTROL and the HOUSING are TURBO APPLICATIONS ONLY!

Break out the permanent Magic Marker........the parts are differant......even the ends are differant on the spings.......so mark away.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

This is the "HEART" of tuning an engine. Differant governer weights, differant springs.........and the LENGHT OF THE SLOT (note there is another slot you can switch to, 180* away) are all tuning factors.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

CAREFUL! When removing the E-clips.........have a magnet GRAB the E-clip.........cause you WILL loose them. Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Well..........it was LUBRICATED at one time. Laughing

The OEM grease just drys-up and now RESTRICTS the movement of moving parts.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The "CAM".

Check the "POST" where the springs hook to. Sometimes the spings will EAT THRU the post. Crying or Very Sad

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Testing your PICK-UP COIL.

Setting your IGNITION timing.

Oh yeah.........that's looks nice and slippery! NOT! The part in my left hand has some teeth on it........it rotates on the shaft......as opposed to the teeth still in the Dist. This is the mechanical advance. Now the VACUUM ADVANCE unit is hooked to the part in the Dist........it rotates the part in the Dist. So.........both parts need to rotate SMOOTHLY and EASILY. And since the grease has HAD IT........................ Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

You CAN NOT test your vacumm advance unit by using your lungs to BLOW INTO IT! Rolling Eyes

You can't make 10-15 lbs. of boost unless you have a AIR COMPRESSOR!

Meaning....you CAN NOT TEST A AFTERMARKET VACUUM ADVANCE to *KNOW* it's operating in the range it should be...AS IT RETARDS THE IGNITION!

Removing the VACUUM ADVANCE UNIT.

"I bought a rebuilt Dizzy from Ebay for $70."
Really? Rolling Eyes

Too bad the Auto Zone Dizzy rebuilds at $150 weren't TURBO DIZZYS EITHER! Laughing

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

This is cheating and I should'nt even show you how to replace the vacuum advance unit WITHOUT taking apart the Dist and cleaning/re-lubing the parts. But....you can. Rolling Eyes

Facts are: At 100K+ miles....you need to REBUILD or REPLACE your Dist!!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Mitsu calls this "LEAD, WIRE ASSEMBLY" MD611533. Yes it has the Dist. CAP SEAL O-ring attached.

In PQ's rebuilt Dist, we use nothing but Mitsu parts! Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona