BATT. POS./ALT./FUSES/FUSE LINKS/UPGRADES New x4

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Email: waynescoolworld@netzero.net
(For any questions, parts orders, or for general communication)

or Call (505) 299-9012
(Parts Orders Only)

WE HAVE MANY CHERRY USED ELECTRICAL PARTS FORSALE!!

YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED ABOUT INCREASING THE FUSE SIZE=
Are you waiting to over-heat your harness.....start a ELECTRICAL FIRE? Rolling Eyes

Also see "BATTERY NEGATIVE/GROUNDS" Wink

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=916&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

Life begins here for your electrical system!

RESISTANCE
7 entries found for resistance.

Main Entry: resistance
Pronunciation: ri-'zis-t&n(t)s
Function: noun
1 a : an act or instance of resisting : OPPOSITION b : a means of resisting
2 : the power or capacity to resist : as a : the inherent ability of an organism to resist harmful influences (as disease, toxic agents, or infection) b : the capacity of a species or strain of microorganism to survive exposure to a toxic agent (as a drug) formerly effective against it
3 : an opposing or retarding force
4 a : the opposition offered by a body or substance to the passage through it of a steady electric current b : a source of resistance
5 : a psychological defense mechanism wherein a patient rejects, denies, or otherwise opposes the therapeutic efforts of a psychotherapist
6 often capitalized : an underground organization of a conquered or nearly conquered country engaging in sabotage and secret operations against occupation forces and collaborators

7: Believeing/using SQC BS/FAQs/GPs Forums. Rolling Eyes

READ ALL THESE FLYERS! UPGRADING YOUR ALTERNATOR TO A
HIGHER AMP UNIT IS ONLY HELPFUL IF MORE ACC. ARE INSTALLED...
AND ALL ACC. ARE USED AT THE SAME TIME.

NO ALTERNATORS WILL *DEEP CYCLE* CHARGE A BATTERY Exclamation

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

APPLYS TO ALL CARS, ESPECIALLY 20 YEAR OLD CARS! Rolling Eyes

The Everstart MAXX batteries sold at Walmart for $70 are pretty good deal. The MAXX-1N has 875 "cold cranking amps" and a 3 year free replacement. And.......it's a "NO HASSLE" warranty.

However.......GEL MEANS NO MORE FUMES!!! $150?

Batteries are not built like they were 20 years ago. If you run a battery down and do not IMMEDIATELY recharge it........it is permanently damaged. You USED to be able to run one down 30-40 times before damage would set in. Now........4 or 5 times and it is damaged.

It packs one hell of a punch, won't vent battery fumes at all,
but it is about $190. Twin terminals are no longer common as they were on other brands either.

The catalogs call for a GROUP 75 battery. A GROUP 24 is somewhat larger and will fit. (more amp power) But there is a lesson to be learned from the EURO guys about....VENTING YOUR BATTERY!

A SEALED battery that has a to VENT those nasty battery fumes are the TICKET! Wink

And....COST FRIENDLY!! $75?

Usually found in the "2 year free replacement" batteries. (psst...same battery as the 3 year free replacement but you just pay more for that additional year) Laughing

This is a VOLTAGE GAUGE. Earlier cars used an AMP GAUGE.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

DEAD BATTERIES on 87? A factory defect on the 87 ETACS......replace with MB571381
The ETACS (Electronic Time and Alarm Control System) is located under the drivers seat.

CAUTION: If you JUMP STARTED your Starquest IN REVERSE POLARITY... Rolling Eyes

You DAMAGED/DESTROYED your ETACS.

From the factory, the 3 leads were attached with a nut.
1. Main positive cable (which bolts to starter)
2. Twin white wires (which feed the bottom of your fuse link box)
3. Black fuse link ( which is the white CHARGING wire from the back of your Alt.) Known as B+.

4. Black wire in pic was added for an Acc. and should have a FUSE close to the battery.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Corrosion and loose parts are a problem. Replacement battery connectors are sold by most auto parts stores for about $3. You need a 5/16" stud on the terminal. Wink

Sand all the eyelets to clean them. I used a SS self-locking nut and flat washer to retain the eyelets.

Feel the BLACK fuse link. If it feels CRUSTY, it has been over-heated. REPLACE with one from Mitsu.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Rear Battery Mount? clic on this link.

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=923

NOTE: The BLACK "wire" on the left is the MAIN FUSIBLE LINK
and only charges the battery Exclamation

Check it's condition if your car is not charging FIRST.
Very often they are damaged or blown INTERNALLY.
Battery acid INSIDE this link will create RESISTANCE
to charging current.
Better to just replace it with a new one.

The BLACK JUNCTION BLOCK is MB711079. (no longer available new)
but build your own! Wink

Or call (505) 299-9012

This pic is from a car with a rear mounted battery, hence the non-feed junction block. (the 3/8" stud attached to the apron) The positive cable from the battery goes to the starter (just like the factory) Then use your factory cable (from the starter) to the junction block. I shorten this one a few inches. See "Rear Battery Mount" for more details.

THE BLACK FUSIBLE LINK IS CHARGING THE BATTERY!!

IT IS 16 GAUGE FUSIBLE LINK. REGULAR WIRE IS A EMERGENCY USE ONLY!! Rolling Eyes

NEVER PERMANENTLY REPLACE A FUSE LINK WITH REGULAR WIRE Exclamation

THE DOUBLE WHITE WIRES SUPPLY CURRANT TO TWO SUB-FUSIBLE LINK BOXS!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

METRIC TO SAE CONVERSION Exclamation

Some TRANSLATION for ROOKIES to understand..... from 88 Vol. 1 page 12-"INTRODUCTION AND MASTER TROUBLESHOOTING".

For example: Your charging wire is 8 gauge and a pretty short length.
You use a FUSIBLE LINK that is 4 sizes SMALLER= a 16 gauge fusible link. If you FEEL (thru your fingers) that a ANY fusible link is very hot...or has blown, some RESISTANCE is present and needs to be HUNT DOWN & REMOVED. (usually dirty connections) Wink

CAUTION: The LONGER a wire is...the more RESISTANCE it has...even if NOTHING is at the end of that wire! Rolling Eyes

This is the OTHER END OF THE BLACK FUSIBLE LINK WIRE!!! It connects to the BATTERY BOLT (B+) on the back of the Alternator.

Kinda hard to tell if this eyelet can pass 75 amps. Carb cleaner will clean it up so you can SEE what you have. Wink

GREASE...CORROSION...LOOSE FASTNERS, INCREASE RESISTANCE Exclamation

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

below: It wasn't JUST the Precis! Early Starquest had a JOKE for the RING TERMINAL.......TOO! Rolling Eyes

You can see this eyelet was arcing once it was cleaned up.
Make sure the solder joint is good. Resolder if necessary.
If you must replace the eyelet, use a really good one. Wink

Trucks and Marine suppliers are a good place to find QUALITY ELECTRICAL TERMINALS/PARTS. Even 'MIL-SPEC' is a superior quality! Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Sand both sides of the eyelet and make sure you use the RIGHT NUT and that it is TIGHT.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Make sure you clean these leads as well. Remember, HOW OLD IS YOUR CAR? They are sealed pretty well.......but they could be GREASY Exclamation

Just a few squirts of TERMINAL CLEANER might do the job. Wink

NOTE the "S" & "L" terminals used on the 87-89 Alternators.
"S"= STATOR. "L" = LAMP

AND....UP SIZING THE ALT AMPS (GM FOR EXAMPLE) BECAUSE YOU HAVE A CHARGING PROBLEM IS FOOLISH UNLESS YOU TRIPLE CLEAN THOSE CONNECTORS, UP-GRADE THE CHARGING WIRE AND OHM TEST THE WIRES THEMSELVES TOO. CORROSION GETS INSIDE THE WIRE ITSELF. SAME THING THE "FLYERS" SAY ABOUT BATTERY CABLES!!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

VERY, VERY RECOMMENDED UPGRADE ALTERNATOR GROUND! Rolling Eyes

Used on 83-86, 65 amp Alt.
NOTE: "R" = RESISTOR ( reduced volts sent to the IC voltage regulator)
"L" = LAMP (if you have a battery lamp in your dash)

You want all 3 of these leads clean as well. Sure it's a PITA to reach these ON THE CAR, but you can do it.
The nut on the battery terminal secures the stud to the housing. Make sure this nut is TIGHT before you install the CHARGING WIRE.......and make that nut is tight as well. It NEEDS to have a LOCK-WASHER!

The 86 model used a DOUBLE B+ WIRE. It was NOT GOOD for the 87
to return to a SINGLE B+ WIRE. The UPGRADE is shown in the following pages. Wink

A DIRTY CONNECTION= RESISTANCE=HEAT=FAILURES=You THINK you need a REBUILT ALTERNATOR! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Bosch PREMIUM rebuilt 75 amp Alt. Bout $170. Wink

2 year warranty!
See PQ's parts catalogs!

A GOOD ALTERNATOR GROUND......is a MUST-HAVE!

This pic is from a IMPORTED STARION (from Scotland) who has RAM-AIR to cool the Alt. Wink

You can build it yourself, if you like.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Are these parts WRONG, LOST or MISSING? Mitsu will sell them to you. DO IT RIGHT!!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The STATIONARY BOLT passes thru the t-cover. This is the
GROUND for your Alternator.
Ya see that ARCING MARKS about 7-10 o'clock?
Not good!........ Rolling Eyes

You can see arcing has taken place at the mounting point. You want ALL the surfaces CLEAN and PAINT FREE. Nut, bolt, spacer, washers and timing cover.
SAME AS THE ALTERNATOR.......BAD GROUND ARCING MARKS! Shocked

You may remember seeing this arcing on the Alt. from the same topic on the latter years. It's a nasty, greasy world down there. Clean up you're act. Wink

No grease, no oil, and NO PAINT on the Alt. or timing cover. Your Alt. needs a GOOD GROUND POINT AND THIS IS IT. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Proper assembly.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

SPECIAL NOTE: 87-89 Alts. DO NOT HAVE A EXTERIOR COOLING FAN! Shocked

But.....The STATOR gets HOT AS HELL so it has TWO INTERIOR COOLING FANS! Wink

This is a 87-75 amp Alternator that used a 5/16"-8mm BELT. That belt size was used 83 to 87.
In 88....ALL ALTERNATOR PULLEYS (3) WENT TO 3/8"-10mm. Wink

With A/C (top bracket) No A/C (bottom bracket)

If you remove your A/C, you can get rid of alot of weight using this bracket. This bracket can be painted because the Alternators ground is the stationary bolt. Wink

MD0027751 about $5.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Oops, up-side down pic. Laughing

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

This is SUB FUSIBLE LINK BOX #2. The other one is behind the black panel.
Proper order of colors starting from the front RED. BROWN. RED. GREEN. Sorry about the focus........but those colors are LISTED right on the box.

NOTE!! This is not all the fuse links! Your car has a TOTAL OF 8 FUSE LINKS!!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The other fuse link box. Note: all GREEN links. This is SUB FUSIBLE LINK BOX #1

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

This type of "heat shrink" is not "heat shrink" at all and the newer fusible links DO have real "heat shrinks"!

Don't be fooled by not INSPECTING for CORROSION under the "TUBE" or "SOCKS". Wink

JUST REPLACE THEM!!

Making your own 8mm- 5/16" female spades, fusible links can spell DISASTER! Shocked

This 86 had a 2,500 watt amp in it......and he wanted another one. Rolling Eyes

If you need a new fuse link, get the RIGHT fuse link from Mitsu. About $4 each. The newer replacements are mostly STAINLESS STEEL!

Fuse links generally fail in two differant fashions.
1. COMPLETE MELT DOWN. This would be like a DIRECT SHORT in which case the link completely melts and will pass NO CURRANT at all.
2. SLOW MELT DOWN. This is probably a more common failure. This is when the RESISTANCE becomes so HIGH (like a cooling fan that is old and drawing too many amps or a connector that has over heated) that will only PARTIALLY MELT the link. The link can still pass a small amount of amps, but if the fan starts to engage, the link will become HOTTER and may PULL ITSELF APART inside the insulation and fail altogether........OR still pass enough amps for a light load.
If you rub the link between your fingers and it feels TOASTY.......it has been partially melted and needs to be replaced. NEVER INCREASE THE SIZE OF A FUSE LINK! It's funtion is to protect a particular SIZE OF WIRE.......you would only increase the link size if you INCREASED THE WIRE SIZE.

3. The MAIN FUSE LINK is a 16 gage fuse link. If AFTER you have cleaned the connectors listed in this topic...your fuse link is very hot or 'blows' from time to time, YOU MAY HAVE A PARTIAL SHORT INSIDE THE BATTERY! Shocked

This can damage the ALTERNATOR!

4. UP-SIZING a fusible link? Rolling Eyes

If you did not UP-SIZE the WIRING...
DO NOT DO THAT! Laughing

You could have SLOW-MELT DOWN of DA BOX!

SUB FUSIBLE LINK BOX #2 FORSALE $50 Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

ALL of these connectors are prone to corrosion from being so close to the battery. A DIRTY/CORRODED connecter is a sorce of HEAT.....which means the RESISTANCE goes way up...........which INCREASES THE AMP DRAW on the FUSE LINKS! So.........why did your fuse link fail? You could be looking at the answer. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Do you see how WIDE those male terminals are? 9.5mm!!
Those two wires splits off to 7 POWER FEEDS!! It feeds
your entire RELAY BOX!

Here, at the A-33 or A34 connector 2 positive leads.....

...FEEDS 5 WIRES!! Shocked

DO YOU HAVE A TOASTED FUSABLE LINK BOX ASSEMBLY? $50 shipped.
(505) 299-9012 Wink

SIMPLE REPLACEMENT PART!

A-81...single red wire connector ALTERNATOR "S" FEED Exclamation

......HEADLIGHTS.....FOGLIGHTS RELAY!

In the past (85)...with REGULAR HEADLIGHTS, using a DEDICATED FIXED FUSE
wasn't working out very well. The WIRING rated to take a 20 amp fuse,
didn't have a SLOW-BLOW METHOD.
If you CONVERTED your 87-89 to this system...upgraded to "Halogens"...
"Performance Halogens"....."HID LOOK Halogens",
and this 20 amp FUSE BLOWS....... Shocked

........and you're AT SPEED... Rolling Eyes

When I was 15 years old, driving my motorcycle....I SLAMED into a PARKED CAR doing about 30mph....cause my HEADLIGHT went out. Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

CAUTION! The foglights are rated for 35 watts......if you INCREASE to 55 watt bulbs, YOU ARE OVER-LOADING the entire system. Rolling Eyes

To REMOVE low-beam headlights from your circut...and give more control over the FOGLIGHTS:

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1868

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The melted wire on the right was the "Sub Fuse Link B" which feds MANY electrical accessories. Most of the damage was inside the plastic connector which made it hard to spot.

Below: A pull-apart yard supplied this MESS! Rolling Eyes

COULD YOU PLEASE TURN ON A GARDEN HOSE...AND WASH-AWAY THE ACID ONCE IN A WHILE? Crying or Very Sad

Myself....I would cut-off the male side (part of the permanent harness side) and replace the sub-fuse link box too with brand new Mitsu's links.

This would be the WORSE CASE SENERIO....3 large wire to solder & heat shrink. DONE! Very Happy

This is the A-33 or A-34....3 pin connector (just behind your battery) and this one was pretty nasty from BATTERY ACID just layin on it for YEARS! Rolling Eyes

You can BET-UR-ass yours has some RESISTANCE...
cheating you of FULL POWER POSITIVE CURRANT! Mad

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

If one end is toast........

........so is the other end. Now, this A-33 (also called A-34 in differant years) harness connector that has the toasted wire MAY have still been passing LIGHT AMP LOADS. But, if the amp load INCREASES.....it could break the connection altogether. THAT.....will really confuse you when you are trying to figure out a failure. Rolling Eyes

Since these parts are located in a HIGHLY CORROSIVE AREA (right next to your battery) you'll want to check them out very closely. What you are seeing is what will cause the SLOW MELT DOWN OF A FUSE LINK! Wink

This is a 85 Fusible Link Box #2.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Poor electrical CRIMPS on the BOTTOM SIDE of the fuse link box could be a problem. This is generally from CORROSION!

Remember, all these connections have been exposed to BATTERY ACID FOR YEARS. Rolling Eyes