BATT. POS./ALT./FUSES/FUSE LINKS/UPGRADES New x4

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Just clean up your terminals. Btw......those "WINGS" that stick out..are how you RELEASE those female spades. Yep.....your POP-UPS HLs will not appreciate having your HARNESS TO FALL OF Exclamation

and neither will YOU. Laughing

Yes.....increasing RESISTANCE helps your Alternator push out more amps.
However, this needs to be CONTROLLED! More amps.....ain't going NO PLACE when it runs into a WALL= SHITTY/DIRTY/CONTAMINATED TERMINALS THRU-OUT YOUR HARNESS Exclamation

Now......what is this attached to? Rolling Eyes

A FURNANCE Exclamation

HOW THIS WORKS KILLER! The GREEN is a 2.0mm x2 (14 gauge) but if you piggy-back with an additional 14 gauge...and MODIFY the CONNECTOR (as shown earlier) NOW....you can MODIFY WITH BRIGHTER
HEADLIGHTS. Wink

The TWO RED 1.25mm x2 (16 gauge) alternate the GROUND from low beam to high beam....controlled by your column switch, and the "Passing relay" (above your brake booster) & "Passing control relay" (left of your glove box)

NOTE: Failures of a Mitsu relay are a 1/10,000 odds in YOUR favor. Rolling Eyes

"THE ICE MAN HAS COME TO TOWN!" Cool

Sammy Hagar! Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Now...running this piggy-back wire OUTSIDE your MAIN HARNESS takes away HEAT SOAK from the GREEN WIRE, as little as it is cause the AMPS/HEAT is reduced by 50%. By UPGRADING to HID Halogens.....this upgrade SAVED YOUR ass, HARNESS, ALTERNATOR, FUSIBLE LINK BOX....! Laughing

Ohhhhh...almost forgot. Rolling Eyes

400 grit wet/dry both sides of this eyelet and REPLACE THE SCREW WITH A NEW ONE! This is GROUND #1...body ground which ORIGINATES from ground #2. Yep......the one that never gets cleaned! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

I know what you are thinking. "What the HELL does this have to do it the injectors circuts?"

Well....you guys are LIVING PROOF that replacing your clips and clean the injector terminals made your car RUN/BEHAVE MUCH BETTER....RIGHTTTTTT? Rolling Eyes

True, that circut is COLD unless the key is "ON".

You guys have also complained about WHY your battery goes DEAD in SHORT ORDER........when EVERYTHING was VERIFIED to be TURNED OFF....and the ETACS was replaced with a later model or dissconnected...even the Alt. was unplugged.

Soooooo WHAT'S BURNING DOWN YOUR BATTERY Question

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

I told you it would be a "SIMPLE TEST TOOL". Laughing

You'd better bet-ya-ass that a Sylvania HID LOOK sealed bulbs run 30*F MORE TEMPS....which is RADIATED HOW?.... Rolling Eyes

...THRU YOUR WIRES & AIR MOVEMENT Exclamation

You've only got TWO FEED WIRES Exclamation

A FOOLISH MOVE: Sitting PARKED (no air cooling for headlights) and CRANKING-UP your stereo....to SHOW-OFF your headlights & stereo. Rolling Eyes

Many cars kill the HL circut when you turn off the engine.....FOR A REASON! Starquest.........DO NOT ALL HAVE THAT FEATURE! Shocked

Tested against regular Sylvania Halogens vs Sylvania HID LOOK Halogens

Now.....WATCH the TEMPS ALTERNATE....as AMPS ALTERNATE via the ALTERNATOR INPUT/OUTPUT.

AMAZING TO VERIFY & OBSERVE Exclamation

Standard Halogens maxed out at 150*F when amps alternate UP.

HID Halogens maxed out at 180*F when amps alternate UP.

Now.....this application used a 65 amp Alt. An alternator will only produce more amps when they are CALLED FOR.

Soooooo....you'll watch as the temp RISES, cause now lower "S"voltages drop which signals the alternator to INCREASE AMPS.

Once the temp goes UP......she'll turn around and the temp will FALL cause the "S" voltage was RESTORED. This CYCLE happens about every MINUTE or so. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

From da top........other than a rear mount battery, a double charging wire and standard halogen headlights, this car had NO ELECTRICAL MODS.

With another car running from behind, with a 55 amp Alt, jumper cables are providing the current to the rear mounted battery.
YES....VOLTAGE will be reduced from TRAVELING THAT FAR!
NO....AMPS will not be reduced from TRAVELING THAT FAR! (least not much)

Turn on your headlights and wait about 3 minutes.

Now......put your pinky in the loop to FEEL the temp. OUCH! Crying or Very Sad

I could only hold it long enough to take a pic Exclamation

MESSAGE: You are NEAR the LIMIT of that fusible link...OR..there is RESISTANCE creating a situation that the ALT. DEMANDS MORE AMPS which run into the WALL of RESISTANCE.

With a cheap-o $10 amp gauge....I'm seeing about 20 amps being SUCKED thru this circut. Amp gauge is attached from the MAIN FUSIBLE LINK to the battery cable.....that runs to the rear battery. Yep.....FULL-FLOW amp gauge. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

I'm a lil light on VOLTS (key needs to be on for the volt gauge to work) sooo.....some of those 20 amps are busy with other duties. Laughing

And that's OK for doing this TEMP TEST. Rolling Eyes

White electrical tapeing this KITCHEN temperture gauge across a headlight (remove the trim).....and OBSERVE.

Wait until it you see the HIGHEST TEMP.....DO NOT REMOVE YOUR EYES! Your Alt will CYCLE UP & DOWN changing the temps. Shocked

Because this tester measures in ONE TENTH OF A DEGREE....WATCH THAT NUMBER to SEE when it is about to COOL DOWN.

That means.....the Alt. has replaced the REDUCED VOLTAGE so it is NOW BACKING DOWN THE AMPS! Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

OK...remove the NEGATIVE CABLE and lets UP-GRADE the GREEN FUSIBLE LINK.

You know the deal.....CLEAN-UP-YOUR-ACT........FIRST.

With a lil practice....removing the LOAD SIDE makes it SOOOOOO easy to make it SURGICALLY CLEAN ON BOTH SIDES!

Keep in mind.....only ONE SIDE of the female has FULL CONTACT Exclamation

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

From the factory......they were installed, BACK-TA-BACK.....which is WHY one side is BLACKER than the OTHER SIDE.

Yes.....installing a fusible link FRONT-TA-FRONT you COULD call that an ASSET. But.....again......CLEAN BOTH SIDES!

Hook-up da battery, turn on your headlights.......again.

Yeppppppppp........my BREATH is NOW warmer than the NEW GREEN FUIBLE LINK. Laughing

BINGO...........RINGO! Twisted Evil

And I remainded.........BACK-TA-BACK! Wink

In COOLING DOWN the "WALL" of RESISTANCE means: The Alt. can PUSH THRU the REQUIRED AMPS.....meaning....DON'T COMMAND MORE AMPS THAT YOU DON'T NEED! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Hmmmmmm, dropped about 2 amps. Rolling Eyes

Ahhhh Haaaa! Dropped about 10 DEGRESS MAXED OUT! Cool

Again......this is a STANDARD HALOGEN. I'll check out (test) the "PERFORMANCE HALOGENS" to see if the green fusible link stays cool too. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Am I DONE yet? Laughing

Have fun......get busy.....blah blah blah.

Btw.....you can test amp draw one circut at a time. The 5/16"-8MM female spades.....have you EVER seen another size on a HEADLIGHT? Rolling Eyes

Problem is...finding 5/16" BARE TERMINAL female spades to build your own. Rolling Eyes

If Symon wants HID HALOGENS.... that will draw more amps, I'll PIGGY-BACK his low beam wiring.....for FREE.

And......installing a 100+ amp Alt.......fat chance he would ever NEED ONE OF THOSE. Laughing

Waste amps not-------WANT NOT!

Just merely understanding that if you ALLOW a wire to become HOT...the Alt is FORCED to produce MORE AMPS to PUNCH THRU the RESISTANCE that a hot wire makes.

Why does a RX-7 twin turbo have a 100 amp Alt? CAUSE THAT ENGINE BAY IS HOTTER THAN HELL AND IT IS WIRED THAT WAY! Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Optional Sylvania headlights.
1. Standard Halogens sealed beams (blue box)
2. Performance Halogens sealed beams (purple box)
3. High Performance Halogens "HID LOOK" sealed beam (white box)
4. H4 series (some are legal....some ain't)

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Note the words...."H4....OFF-ROAD USE" Exclamation

WTF?

You a STREET RACER?
You want "HEATERS" ON YOUR ass? Laughing

read the..... FINE PRINT! Laughing

from a 2001/2002 catalog.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Sylvania made a housing/lens like this.....and JERKED them off the market. RECALLED all they had at Auto Zone and any supplier that sold them. I wonder why? Laughing

Up grading a Ford PU truck HL harness is necessary cause the HL SWITCH & harness never had a CLOSE MOUNTED RELAY (like a Starquest has) to deal with the EXTREME AMP LOAD.

If you PIGGY-BACK your Starquest as DESCRIBED EARLIER....you don't need this "kit".

My suggestion: Stay with the OEM Starquest HL harness and piggy-back it. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

I'm not a COP....but if I was, you nail me with your H4s....I'll pull ya over SO FRICKING FAST.......! Evil or Very Mad

"50 state legal" my ass!
And....I'd have your car TOWED! Even if you get out of the ticket(s)= $$$!

You BLIND PEOPLE using that BS SYSTEM! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

What's next? Well......maybe it's time to show you that .020
SELF AMALGAMATING electrical tape is a HUGE.....STUPID mistake to WRAP A ELECTRICAL HARNESS WITH!

Using it to wrap around a BARE CONNECTER is fine....but the NON STICKY SILICONE is PERFECTIONALISUM to ENCLOSE MOST HIGH AMP HARNESSES!

If a HIGH AMP WIRE is in the harness (H/Ls for example) IT NEEDS TO BREATH-OFF HEAT! DUH! Rolling Eyes

Example harnesses will be displayed to demonstrate how OEM dealt with this problem when they INCREASED RESISTANCE,.....emagdnim Laughing

And PLEASE.....SAVE YOUR BREATH! Laughing

From a 1979 to a 1980 model Chrysler made some changes to DEAL with the increased AMP LOAD by larger wiring and the ABILITY TO ALLOW IT TO VENT OFF TRAPPED HEAT SOAK!

BREATHABLE vs NON-BREATHABLE HARNESS WRAP.
On the left 1980 used a 4 speed heater/ac quad resistor blower motor....obviously that blower motor uses a shit load of amps.

On the right a 1979 used a 3 speed heater/ac tri resistor blower motor...and that blower motor was AMP HUNGRY TOO!

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Where are we at? OK....seems to me that you want brighter lights, more stereo amps, BIG-ass COOLING FANS.. Rolling Eyes

.. and you'll want more ALTERNATOR. COOL!

And it occurs to ME.......that you don't understand/read the WATTS that some ACC. NEED. Shocked

But.....you need to RE-READ ALL PAGES to COMPREHEND the RIGHT WAY to NET your desires. Yes.......I EDITED more info to further explain WHY some mods are not working out.

"I don't SEE the problem" Laughing

And........NO.....you won't "SEE" the amp flow problem, BUT SOMETIMES IT'S THERE!

Are there DIFFERANT CONNECTORS for the CS-130s? Yepppp! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 04 Aug 2003 Posts: 4610 Location: Ocala, fl

some of these topics are geting a bit over complicate'd

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

As UNCOMPLICATED as UPGRADING to a CS-130.....I've read the way some NEWBIES are at a loss for info. Rolling Eyes

As qouted from AC Delco above.

" ACDelco recommends a rear support bracket on the CS Alternator conversion if a rear support bracket was on the SI unit being converted"

Translated: Building a shit ADAPTER BRACKET to support your CS-130.....using a 5/16" bolt.......and using washers to space the alternator so the belt lines up.....outta Ali or steel.....

Are you stupid or sumthang? Laughing

or is it just sit in your driveway? Geeeeee........isn't the Alternator OVER-DRIVEN.....A BUNCH? Rolling Eyes

DUH!

I have SNAPPED-OFF 3/8" stationary bolts several times using GM Alts. on my Ford engines.

Fordddddddd......used a 7/16" stationary bolt from...day one. Sooo, I DRILLED the GM ALTERNATOR to accept a 7/16". Wink

Now.....how COMPLICATED is drilling your TIMING COVER to a LEAST 3/8" to support the adapter? Rolling Eyes

You want more amps? Comin atcha!

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

A CI Alternator rear bracket.

A CS Alternator rear bracket.

Wowwwwwww, that looks SO HARD to fabricate that rear bracket. Shocked

How many HOLES are NOT USED in the side of a 2.6L? Rolling Eyes

I wonder....do they sell ELECTRICAL CONDUIT at HOME DE-BLOW:lol: Laughing

Do they sell FLAT STOCK STEEL at HOME DE-BLOW?
What about.....nuts, bolts & washers? Rolling Eyes

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Hi. My name is CS-130. I am on a 350 CID Chevy engine. I only have 6k miles on me Since Bosch had me rebuilt in Japan. I am a PREMIUM REBUILT......so why did I FAIL and why is my face all BLACK?

PQ: I'm sorry to report, CS...you were STOLEN. Crying or Very Sad

And the thief installed another BIG-ass stereo amp...4 sub-woofers & a bunch of other speakers. You also had 4 off-road driving lights on a Baja Bar overhead. He drove you really hard off-road and blew out the seals in the p/s gear box. He was an IDIOT 19 year old and replaced the p/s PUMP instead of the gear box seals.

In doing so....he did not tighten down the REAR BRACKET. Sooooo your BLACK FACE was CARBON being SUCKED/EVACUATED out of your face from the VIBRATION created by most alternators. You only have a few small SCREWS to support YOUR ass-END....hence, asking YOU to deliver more amps at STUPID RPM.......kinda works against you.

It really didn't matter if you had HD HIGH TEMP BEARINGS & HOUSINGS.
You were DOOMED because the IDIOT had NO IDEA of what the PURPOSE of the rear bracket is.

The GOOD NEWS....at least you were NOT installed on a 4 cylinder lacking ANY form of SUPPORT! Laughing

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

CS: Ohhhhhhh, I see what you mean. I did notice that newer cars are bolted in much stronger.

But what about the earlier OEM Alternators?

Like this?

..or that? A Mitsu model.

PQ: well.....it IS REAR SUPPORTED......by its ass-END already. Idea

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

CS: Hmmmmm, interesting. But...you used my cousin, the 65 amp CI Alternator on a 700+ HP engine...that will see 7,000 CRANK rpm.......which means the Alternator rpm was REALLY FASTER, with a SOLID MOUNTED ENGINE? soooooo......how did you make that work?

PQ: I NEED reliability. I CUSTOM BUILD around a COMMON REPLACEMENT Alternator in such a way...that loss of ELECTRICAL POWER
could ruin your day.....week....or LIFE. Shocked

A DEAD CAR....not a problem. A DEAD BOAT.....BIG PROBLEM Exclamation

How can *I* S.O.S. a DOWN BOAT if I don't.......PRACTICE WHAT I PREACH? Rolling Eyes

The MARINE LIFE.....is a BRUTAL LIFE Exclamation

Did you see the new MIAMI VICE MOVIE? Did you NOTE the TWIN engine RPM in the HOT BOAT with a HOT BABE & a HOT STEREO?

A day in da life......... Twisted Evil

WFO to Cuba! 90 miles away. What a RUSHHHHHHHHHHHH Exclamation

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

OK...let's get into DOs & DON'Ts by using a CS-130.

Because REPORTED FAILURES of the HARMONIC DAMPNER by members, owners etc. with a STOCK ALTERNATOR...pitches-off the DRIVE-SIDE PULLEY for the alternator pulley, (no pics of that failure)..
let me show you the differance so you won't make a silly-assed mistake of NOT HAVING A TRUE ALIGNMENT OF THE CS-130 ALTERNATOR PULLEY Exclamation

"CLOSE".......is NOT GOOD ENOUGH! Rolling Eyes

You have several ways to SUSPEND the CS-130.

With the factory A/C bracket......could you MACHINE the REAR to GAIN the NECESSARY .205" to align the Alt. pulley? Sure....but what a PITA. Rolling Eyes

Could you....cut away the BLACK AREA SLOT and replace it with the NON A/C
BRACKET?....YEP, but still another PITA.

At LEAST.....I'll STIR your imagination explaining your options. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

83-85 Did not have a HARMONIC DAMPNER. Often reffered to
a HARMONIC BALANCER......it was a FIXED DRIVE PULLEY...with a BOLTED-ON A/C DRIVE PULLEY.

86-87 began use of the HARMONIC DAMPNER using the ALTERNATOR DRIVE-SIDE PULLEY. In 86 the Alt. was 65 amps. In 87 the Alt. was 75 amps. (earlier pics, page 1 will show the differance)

87 was the year that sold the most Starquest....and probably had the MOST FAILURES of the HARMONIC DAMPNER.

Now....you want to run a CS-130 105 amp Alternator and make the harmonic dampner WORK EVEN HARDER Question