BATT. POS./ALT./FUSES/FUSE LINKS/UPGRADES New x4

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

83-87 used a 5/16"-8mm WIDE Alternator belt........and the TOP of those 3 grooves...dampner, water pump & Alt...would be 10mm.

The P/S grooves (closest to the engine) & A/C grooves (farthest from the front of the engine) are 3/8"-10mm WIDE and will measure at 13mm.

NOTE.....how FAT the front side of the Alt. pulley is. The reason is: It is THOUGHT to deal with a BETTER DAMPNER BY IT'S WEIGHT! Just keep that IN-MIND as we proceed......cause it's true.

The MORE WEIGHT of an object that sees VIBRATION.....the easier it is to DAMPEN THE VIBRATION. Wink

Now......going BACK to a FIXED PULLEY that is NOT a HARMONIC DAMPNER.....and is made of ALUMINUM....some would say that is "BETTER PERFORMANCE".

Guys with Honda cars....say it destroyed the oil pump that is attached to the crankshaft cause the VIBRATION was OUT-OF-CONTROL on Honda engines. Laughing

Just so you know. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Now.....in 88 models, things saw a change....again.

The INCREASED AMPS (75 amps in 87) was still used in the 88-89 models
but the Alt. BELT GROOVES (3) were upgraded from 5/16" to 3/8".

Same as the AFTERMARKET ALUMINUM.

Because of failures......and CHANGED-OUT PULLEYS......to the WRONG SIZE could create another........PITA! Laughing

When you buy a USED PART......from a STRANGER....BETTER ASK THE RIGHT QUESTIONS TO ID WHAT YOU ARE BUYING Exclamation

For example: DO NOT REPLACE A FAILED 88 HARMONIC DAMPNER with a 87 harmonic dampner.....unless you DOWN-SIZE YOUR BELTS!

I see this CRAP all the time. Rolling Eyes

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

88-89 Alternator pulley MD611265 $10

A 5/16"-8mm belt (83-87) in a 3/8" pulley. (88-89) This is WHY it is SUB-SURFACED.

Yes......you would need a SHORTER 5/16" BELT if used in a 3/8" pulley.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Being ABLE to move the Alternator FORWARD using THIS GOLD BRACKET allows you to FABRICATE the LOWER BRACKET further FORWARD.....which means...YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SHIM THE PULLEY FORWARD.
Just another option to take into consideration. Wink

BE AWARE: The back-side of this bracket....

...will be one GREASY SOB! Laughing

You best clean it up. Idea

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

This is a COMMON 3/8"-10mm V-belt pulley....

Shimming this pulley FORWARD...to line it up with the crank pulley?

Do you THINK that 2 threads holding down the nut...are enough? Rolling Eyes

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

This FLAT AREA on the T-CHAIN COVER (maked by the arrow) will CONTROL how far the bracket can fall. Butted right up against it......and WELDED as such, LENDS STABILITY to the adapter bracket. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

These measurements are BASED on the NON-MOVEABLE A/C bracket.....against the NON A/C bracket.......that COULD BE SHIMMED FORWARD....to ELIMINATE SHIMMING THE PULLEY.

The dimensions you see here for the SPACERS are WITHOUT SHIMMING the NON A/C bracket. Wink

In other words.....you put a thick washer behind the non-a/c bracket,
you won't need to shim the PULLEY.....AT ALL.

Yep.....that's a FLIP-FLOP of the bushings LENGHT.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 04 Aug 2003 Posts: 4610 Location: Ocala, fl

I have been meaning to point out something and that last pic gives me the perfect chance. When fabing up a bracket for an alt, it is important to have at least "two" points for bolt down for the extention bracket. This is near impossible for the rear side of the bracket, but for the front it can be done easily by extending the bar stock to the lower timeing cover bolt. This will stop the drop of the alt and bracket that will certainly happen with the set up as shown. Every one out there is not a master mechanic.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Shelby, That's what the angle iron does...it won't ALLOW that adapter bracket to fall more that about 10*. Wink

Well...most CS seires Alts are FIXED...and BELT ADJUSTMENT is done elseware. Now........we want the Alt. to ADJUST it's own BELT TENSION. Can do.

There is a MEAN..........to this MADNESS! Twisted Evil

What *MY* eyes calculate...almost 45*

HAMMER TIME Exclamation

How could you adjust the V-belt? You make a HOLE...a SLOT, or you WASHER/BUSH the lower bolt AWAY from the block. Wink

A 105 amp Alternator....under a LOAD... Shocked

NEEDS STABILITY Exclamation

Any "KIT" that I would supply....would have EVERY *SHOULDERD* BOLT.....of the PROPER DIAMETER, LENGHT & HARDNESS along with a SELF-LOCKING NUTS.

PROPERLY GROUNDING YOUR OEM ALTERNATOR! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Understanding p/ns: 15= 5/16" width 390= 39.0" Because differant PULLEY WIDTHS & DIAMETERS....alters the REQUIRED LENGHT. Rolling Eyes

A 15395XX= 39.5" A 17390XX= 3/8" X 39.0"

NOTE......where the RED ADJUSTMENT BOLT is in the slot when the belt is tight.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

ANY....MIS-ALIGNMENT of the Alternator pulley.......running on a HARMONIC DAMPNER.......sooner or later....you just set-yourself-up for another FAILED DAMPNER. Shocked

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Once a new belt BREAKS-IN.....STRECTHES, you'll re-tighten the belt.

This is..... Rolling Eyes

.....a little TOO CLOSE for COMFORT.
My suggestion.....Use a 38.0" or a 38.5" belt to get out of the DANGER ZONE...or break out a file/grinder and TRIM THAT AREA...on the BRACKET. Wink

HEAT........is gonna make parts EXPAND! CYA! Idea

Above: 83-87... A 5/16" belt...on a 1/2" Alt pulley allows HIGH RPM USE without the belt BAILING-OUT. Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Below: 88-89 3/8" pulleys Exclamation

A 3/8" X 38.5" belt could work...but 39.0" won't need the "HELPER" to install the belt.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

G-FORCES......a belt that GROWS IN LENGHT cause the RPM of the Alternator PULLEY is EXTREME Exclamation

A POOR PULLEY ALIGNMENT= SEE YA.....won't wanna be ya! That damages a GOOD BELT Evil or Very Mad

How TIGHT...is tight enough?

If you can TWIST IT... to 90* MAX, you're tight as you should go.
Break-it in for about 15 minutes...re-tighten the belt.....you should be good-ta-go until you shell your next engine. Laughing

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Do you NEED to remove the engine to do this mod? Shocked

NOPE! I've done this just leaning over the fender using a regular drill & a 3/8" drill bit...and removed the radiator.

And I've used 90* motor, and a SHORT 3/8" drill bit......so I didn't need to remove the radiator. Wink

This is the *KEY*...to have a GOOD BITE ON THE ADAPTER BRACKET.
Using a 8mm bolt Question

......

PLEASE!
Even the RX-7 Alt. had a 10mm stationary bolt. Did a ROTARY have a VIBRATION PROBLEM? Noooooo! Laughing

But it TURNED STUPID HIGH RPMs Exclamation

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Using the WHITE FACTORY ACC. (B+) WIRE SPLICES-OFF TO CHARGE THE BATTERY.

The ACC. WIRE is broken-down to feed 7 or 8 SUB-FUSIBLE LINKS.

The FACTORY CHARGING SPLICE WIRE is PROTECTED by a "MAIN" 16 gauge fusible link.

CAUTION: FORCE-FEEDING EXCESSIVE AMPS to "SURFACE" RE-CHARGE a low battery..... Rolling Eyes

WILL NEVER BE GOOD FOR ANY BATTERY. More info on page one, pic one, in the TSB. Wink

Although a NEW 4 gauge CHARGING WIRE would be considerd an OPTION
....just like the 105 amp CS-130 Alternator....the OPTIONAL 10 gauge fusible link is simply ANOTHER OPTION to PROTECT your Starquest.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 04 Aug 2003 Posts: 4610 Location: Ocala, fl

your alt batt cable in the pic ignores a major safty item,, a fuse

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

With many years of experience, we have noted that not ALL vehicles come with a FUSE or FUSIBLE LINK at all. Some Chevy trucks for example.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Not using a FUSIBLE LINK.....or using one that is TOO LARGE for a GIVEN SIZE OF WIRE... Shocked

that practice wiped out this ENTIRE HARNESS Exclamation

Understanding The S.O.S. Manual...UPGRADES. Wink

TSBs were issued to CORRECT a KNOWN MIS-PRINT, WRONG INFO, BETTER INFO....all kind of reasons. Even HAND WRITTEN (below) happen so fast...they won't RE-TYPE an entire page. Rolling Eyes

Myself...I'll delete a pic......add a new pic....text, same deal. WHY?
Cause I CAN! Laughing

In other words.....I RECOMMEND YOU PAGE-BACK to VIEW the
CHANGES Exclamation

This is ALWAYS HAPPENING without notice to ANYBODY. Idea

Btw....yesterday, a Mitsu Manager asked ME for help with a NEW headlight "flicker" on 06/07 "Outlanders". Rolling Eyes

My answer: "Show me the $$ Exclamation

"

I don't write TSBs for FREE! Twisted Evil

[color]

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

A SINGLE pic is worth a thousand words. If it's a DUPLICATION of a FSM page....or a TSB page.... or warnings on "FLYERS" that come with a new/rebuilt part = WAY LESS TYPING FOR ME Exclamation

Now......some people want to ARGUE with me with what I type. Rolling Eyes

It is RARE...that I see a PRE-PRINTED INSTRUCTIONS to have a TYPO.

People are welcome here Exclamation

If you see a TYPO..... Rolling Eyes

point it out and I'll correct it.

As far as $$? I ship parts the same day the $$ comes in my hand with a order. There is no PROFIT in it at all. Laughing

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

WARNING/CAUTION! MIS-ROUTED HARNESS' (under/over your column) CAN SPELL A DISASTER with a 5 speed car...when the harness comes into contact with your clutch linkage!! Shocked

If it was a "virgin"...never open the trim/clam halfs,....
MAKE A MAP to DUPLICATE the way Mitsu DESIGNED IT!

There is little room for error because there is little room for all thoses harness'!

Replacement of the ignition switch... Rolling Eyes

not hard unless you DO NOT route the harness' BACK were they should be.

More details here:
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1189&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=