BATTERY NEG/GRNDS IGN. COIL New x2

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

We stock this larger, 3 & 2 gauge, replacement ground cable.
$65 shipped! Wink

The mid-cable lug is SO IMPORTANT TO HAVE!

3 & 2 gauge replacement ground cable (PQ's p/n SSD-2009). This ground cable was UP-SIZED in late 88 Starquest from a 4 gauge! Rolling Eyes

NOTE: Many electrical problems can be traced back to CORROSION interupting a STRONG, RELIABLE GROUND.
"It's only a GROUND" What the heck is that suppose to mean? Almost EVERY ELECTRICAL DEVICE in this car is switched by a STRONG GROUND! Rolling Eyes

Neglecting to service ALL THE GROUNDS IN THE ENGINE BAY is a mistake. Crying or Very Sad

Also see "BATTERY POSITIVE/ALT/FUSE LINKS & UPGRADE"
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1180

All of the grounds locations are listed in the ELECTRICAL CHAPTER ( 8 ) Volume-2, Pages 8-10 & 11.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

APPLYS TO ALL CARS ESPECIALLY WHEN THEY ARE 20 YEARS OLD!!! Rolling Eyes

Walmart sells this Everstart battery for about $70. p/n MAXX-1N.
875 cold cranking amps and dual leads that can come in handy. 3 year free replacement. Wink

The "TWIN TERMINALS" are ideally suited for this car. Someguys suggest "HYPER-GROUND" kits? Please........for a few bucks you can merely add an additional cable to the the BODY/APRON GROUND BOLT. Wink

It packs one hell of a punch, won't vent battery fumes at all,
but it is about $190. Twin terminals are no longer common as they were on other brands either.

The catalogs call for a GROUP 75 battery. A GROUP 24 is somewhat larger and will fit. (more amp power) But there is a lesson to be learned from the EURO guys about....VENTING YOUR BATTERY!

A SEALED battery that has a to VENT those nasty battery fumes are the TICKET! Wink

And....COST FRIENDLY!! $75?

Usually found in the "2 year free replacement" batteries. (psst...same battery as the 3 year free replacement but you just pay more for that additional year) Laughing

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

DO NOT BE MISLEAD! Rolling Eyes

THIS IS YOUR MAIN BODY GROUND, the eyelet behind it is the ECU & ISC/MPS (intake manifold) GROUND! ALL HELL BREAKS LOOSE IF YOU DO NOT SERVICE GROUND #11.

Note the letter "E" on that bolt. It means it was platted special for electrical use. On your electrical fan shroud, two more "E" bolts (8mm) are for those two black ground wires at the top of your RADIATOR!!

Bottom line is....a RUSTY, CORRODED bolt can not transfer electrical very well.

Another 'parts car', white 85. GREEN COLOR ON COPPER MEANS:...... Rolling Eyes

GRAVITY MEANS:......... Rolling Eyes

TRASHED NEGATIVE CABLE! It travels down thru the INTERIOR of that cable.

You would BLAME a bad sensor.....or a harness connector (clips-pigtails)
ANYTHING....but just doing a simple CLEANING of those junctions. Rolling Eyes

If a battery cable looses .2 volts..over the lenght of the cable...it is OFFICIALLY TRASHED! REPLACE IT! Wink

This red Starquest is a parts car. I'll use it for pics. In 88, Mitsu INCREASED the size of the ground cable. Wink

GROUND # 11. I see this all too often on Starquest. The negative cable end was cut off and a bolt-on end replaced it. However, to make the cable reach the battery....they unbolted the MOST IMPORTANT GROUND IN THE CAR and replaced it with the smaller red wire. One look at the bolt that retains it to the apron says it all. This is one poor ground.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

GROUND #11...The BRASS eyelet has a 10 gauge wire that dead-ends to the intake manifold so the ISC/MPS has a good ground source.

The 14 gauge wire is......YOUR ECU (computer) GROUND!! ........IT TRAVELS VERY FAR to the ECU! Better see to it being SPOTLESS!

SHORT-CUT.........if you have twin terminals on your battery......use the SIDE TERMINAL with a short battery cable to the BODY GROUND. Wink

You can call it, your own HYPER-GROUND KIT! Wink

Upgraded Nov. 09: This is a 89 ground harness. It went to TWO brass eyelets,
(one snapped-off Rolling Eyes

) added another ground wire....and the larger, intake manifold gauge GREW TOO! Shocked

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

"My car runs, but runs like shit! WTF is wrong?"
The larger gauge wire is short and grounds the intake manifold & ISC/MPS. The smaller gauge wire is DIRECT TO THE ECU! Rolling Eyes

Ground #11!
The factory bolt is marked with a "E"! That means it is PLATED to deal with ELECTRICAL TRANSFER!

"My throttle cable is locking-up!" That's right... Rolling Eyes

cause the throttle cable is NOW a negative cable and is WELDING ITSELF! Shocked

MANY electrical problems begin right at this point. Corrosion just eats up this IMPORTANT MAIN GROUND POINT! Chase the threads, sand away corrosion and rust from BOTH the apron and BOTH SIDES of the other GROUND EYELET. After you get it all nice and BOLTED DOWN.......hit it with a little paint.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remember, we have TWO THINGS TO GROUND WELL. The BODY and the ENGINE........cause ALL other grounds in the entire are pulled from those 2 points. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Using the right bolt with the STAR WASHER ensures you have a SOLID CONNECTION to the block.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

THIS IS...the location of the OEM ENGINE BLOCK GROUND!
A 10mm bolt with a STAR WASHER (between the eyelet and block) to make SURE it is BITTING INTO BOTH PARTS! Keep it OEM, please! Rolling Eyes

GROUND # 2. As greasy and nasty down there as it is.......the same corrosion takes place at the block as well. Building a new motor? Watch out here with the PAINT JOB. Wink

Running a TAP thru it removes the RUST from those threads!!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

We stock this larger, 3 & 2 gauge, replacement ground cable.
$65 shipped! Wink

The mid-cable lug is SO IMPORTANT TO HAVE!

3 & 2 gauge replacement ground cable, PQ's p/n SSD-2009. This ground cable was UP-SIZED in late 88 Starquest from a 4 gauge! Rolling Eyes

Testing a battery cable: Unhook the cable from the body & the engine block....take a voltage test at your battery....now test the cable voltage at the end of that cable. If it LOST MORE THAN .2 VOLTS.....REPLACE THAT CABLE!

If a cable CAN NOT DELIVER 100% GROUND..... Rolling Eyes

NOR CAN YOUR ECU SENSORS! Shocked

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

By late 1988 Mitsu figured out that they were not suppling nearly enough ground to the BODY. Hence a LARGER cable was used.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

SUPER NOTE THIS: This is ground #11, MAIN BODY GROUND!
Behind it is another ring-eyelet & 88/89s had TWO ring-eyelets (pics soon)
that are known to fail!
The LARGER wire grounds the intake manifold (ISC/MPS)...the SMALLER WIRE IS A DIRECT GROUND TO THE ECU!!

Note: Top cable was cut off for use in a REAR BATTERY MOUNT.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Ground #10. The SOURCE of the *SECONDARY* cooling fan RELAY.

NOTE: many of the ground wires are tied into each other withinin the harnesses, so if one ground fails....another will take it's place. MAYBE! Shocked

And the list of grounds is very long. I'll be adding to it as time allows. Wink

GROUND #10. You have a 4 wire connector above your secondary fan.(drivers side fan) The smaller black wire is the ground for the secondary THERMO SENSOR. This is the sorce for that ground.

It also grounds:
Radiator fan motor RELAY #2 (large round one)
Radiator fan A/C RELAY 1 (small square one)
Radiator fan A/C RELAY 2 (small square one)
Condenser fan motor RELAY (small square one)
A/C pressure switch (green cover on it)

Keep this in mind......you have TWO differant means of turning on the fans. COOLING & A/C.

See page 24-68 & 69.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Ground #1. SOURCE of *PRIMARY*cooling fan RELAY.

GROUND #1. You have a 4 wire connector above your primary cooling fan. (passanger side) The smaller black wire is the ground for the primary THERMO SENSOR. This is the sorce for that ground. Clean the apron & the eyelet and make sure the copper wire is not CORRODED all-ta-hell where it enters the eyelet. NOTE a pic from above. Wink

It also grounds:
Radiator fan motor RELAY #1 (large round relay)
Headlight switch
Headlight pop-up motors

See pages 24-68 & 69 for cooling fans in 1988 Vol 1, for the cooling fan diagram.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

This is GROUND #3....(the 8mm bolt) It is the INTAKE MANIFOLD GROUND so the ISC/MPS gets a solid ground. It began from GROUND #11(main body ground below the battery) and dead-ends to the manifold. (intake manifolds have gasket under it so it isn't grounded very well)

Now..if the NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE is not passing high amp loads to the engine block, GROUND #3 is being OVER-HEATED when the STARTER is engaged!! NOT GOOD!

Once GROUND #3 is in trouble passing current....your THROTTLE CABLE BECOMES A GROUND!! YICKS! (known to WELD that cable)

Ground #3

Ground #3

The LATE model cars had a WHITE FEMALE connector IN THE HARNESS SIDE.
The EARLY model cars had a BLACK FEMALE connector IN THE HARNESS SIDE

Ground #3

Ground #3

That WHITE STUFF on the black connector suggest that CORROSION is present. White stuff or not, obviously RESISANTANCE makes for a POOR GROUND!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

GROUND #9 (Body Ground, also tied in with ground 11, apron bolt)

Grounds:
Electronic Spark Control Igniter:
ECI Control Unit: pin # 1 SHEILDED GROUND & # 53 DIRECT GROUND to the ECI
Ignition Coil Ground Side (-) SHEILDED GROUND
Dist. signal generator: SHIELDED GROUND
Detonation sensor: SHIELDED GROUND

NOTE: Dist. Signal Generator, ALSO....the POSITIVE WIRE (white) that sends the positive signal to the IGNITER is GROUND SHIELDED! GROUND SHIELDED MEANS: an additional wire is wrapped around the SIGNAL WIRE to GROUND OUT ANY INTERFERANCE! NOT THE SIGNAL WIRE ITSELF!!!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

DO NOT PAINT THIS ALT. STATIONARY BOLT LOCATION!!!

If you see a little arcing at the Alt. stationary bolt (like this at about 7-10 o'clock).....don't be surprised. This Alt. can be a PITA to change out. Nobody wants to bend over and CLEAN THE MOUNTING SURFACES. Rolling Eyes

Here is a GREAT EXAMPLE of Cyberquests Honda. this is a faulty ground wire that caused MONTHS of troubleshooting. i found the bad ground but the wire had already caused its DAMAGE!

These parts have LIVED IN A HUMID AREA!.....just like a.......BOAT! Shocked

It took MONTHS to find this problem, the ALT was PULLED out and TESTED more then ONCE and it tested GOOD each time. i finally broke down and bought a NEW one, and then pulled the old one apart to FIND THIS! this is the HIDDEN DAMAGE your BAD GROUNDS are causing.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

GROUND #8. This one is behind the instrument cluster.

This one grounds:
Combination meter (instruments)
Automatic A/C control unit.
The Clock
Cigarette Lighter
Turn signal dash flashers
Dimmer control switch
Automatic seat belt control unit...which also "Ts" to ground the DRIVERS door, 3-way switch attached to the DOOR LATCH, inside the door. If that switch is worn-out...you loose your auto seat belt function!

The list will grow.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Although not listed under "GROUNDS" , it is infact a GROUND CABLE.
It's function is RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION. However, If your NORMAL GROUNDS SUCK.......you FORCE IT into becoming a GROUND.
Bad news for the transmission gears, bearings etc. Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Replacing trans mount? Clean away the paint from the new mount and clean BOTH sides of BOTH EYELETS.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Tapping into your O2 sensor SIGNAL wire with a wire that is NOT GROUND SHIELED.....(for a A/F meter for example) IS FOOLISH!!

You can CREATE INCORRECT SIGNALS SENT TO THE ECI! I know what the instructions say.....it's still FOOLISH! A low-dollar A/F meter will LIE TO YOU!!! Can you see the SHIELDING in this pic? NOPE!
It's further down this wire. This is SO IMPORTANT.....this SIGNAL WIRE PATH IS SEPERATE FROM THAT BIG-ass HARNESS! Rolling Eyes

GROUND #4. O2 sensor SHIELD WIRE GROUND. And that's ALL it grounds. I would'nt attach anyother ground to this sorce. The last thing you want is to send STRANGE SIGNALS to the o2 ground shield. If you have a cheapo A/F gauge and it goes wacky all the time it vould interference from other components in the car. that WACKY signal feeds right back to the ECU, not good.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

GROUND #5. Behind your rear-most trim panel in the center of the car. This is where your FUEL PUMP get's it's GROUND.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Also not listed under "GROUNDS" ........this radio noise capacitor is grounded under the RR speaker shelf.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Ground #6 high mounted stop light, rear wiper motor, rear
window defogger

GROUND #6. Located behind the LR quarter panel trim BEHIND the rear strut tower.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

GROUNDS & the POSITIVE SIDE are transfered to the rear hatch via the strut copper contacts. Famous for causing the 3rd brake light to fail, rear defrost and rear wiper. A rear hatch that needs adjusted FORWARD can also cause a poor connection here. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Each strut has 3 small copper "nipples" . Don't forget to clean those too.

We'll post ground #7 (located next to the ETAC under your carpe) soon.