EXHAUST SYSTEM & MANIFOLDS (NEWx4)

Joined: 08 Sep 2008 Posts: 124

When building or buying a custom exhaust down-pipe...understand the THICKNESS of the mounting flange SHOULD BE thick enough to NOT BEND under the HIGH HEAT it sustands. I recommend 1/2" flanges! Wink

Welding nuts to the down-pipe allows a ground wire and a heat shield attached direct to the down-pipe. Idea

Bosch O2

The CORRECT O2 comes with the INSTRUCTIONS, flange, gasket and the
heat shrink. $48 shipped. Very simple to replace them and highly recommended!

Email or call PQ at (505) 299-9012

Joined: 08 Sep 2008 Posts: 124

Having the EXPANSION JOINT removes the weight of the exhaust system pulling on the turbo...AND THE HEAD EXHAUST STUDS! They should incorperated by ANY supplier of a desent down-pipe or complete exhaust system. Rolling Eyes

SS braided.... Wink

High quailty...SS braided...10.5" overall length...7" usable length (slides over)...2 1/2" pipe size. $75 shipped (have 3" too) Wink

Email or call PQ (505) 299-9012

Joined: 08 Sep 2008 Posts: 124

In the past, my exhaust pal welded a lil' pipe to the down-pipe and a "Cherrybomb". Lacking the expansion joint (out of stock)...within 100 miles the manifold nuts BACKED-OFF making it leak. Shocked

You build the exhaust system SUPPORTED CORRECTLY via rubber donuts...THEN close the gap via the expansion joint. Nuff said?

Easy enough to find them....and not expensive.

If you WANT ENDURANCE from your manifold & turbocharger, installing a
PYROMETER to monitor the EGT (exhaust gas temperture) is the best idea to have that gauge.

The Mitsu factory OEM manifold is thick enough to drill & tap for the bung to be installed there.

Joined: 08 Sep 2008 Posts: 124

Quality gauges are great. You SHOULD know when it's time to LIFT-OFF-DA-THROTTLE! Rolling Eyes

Pyrometers....coolant temp....oil temps, things that DESTROY YOUR ENGINE and you just DO NOT KNOW without those gauges!

CRACKING....at the number one exhaust pipe is OH SO COMMON! Rolling Eyes

Yes...you want that HEAT SHIELD to protect the MAS ACCORDIAN HOSE!

Joined: 08 Sep 2008 Posts: 124

If your accordian hose has cracked, UN-METERED AIR is gonna enter your engine! NOT GOOD! This could LEAN-OUT your engine! Shocked

GOOD, SOFT, used accordians (changed slightly nearly every year) are
$50 shipped.

Email or call PQ at (505) 299-9012.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

JustPaus wrote:

http://forcedairresearch.tripod.com
or call us at ( 715 846 8462 ) 10AM daily til midnight
"on sale now until January 31st $189.99"

Clic this address to view the exhaust manifolds & turbos! Wink

http://forcedairresearch.tripod.com Makes QUAILTY MANIFOLDS to run T3/T4 turbos! Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

CyberQuest wrote:

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=327&phot_key=686

Mitsubishi Starion Conquest Turbo Manifold, fits all Chrysler 2.6l engines. This unit will allow you to replace the stock unit with a T3/T4 turbo and external wastegete. Lifetime warranty!

$299.95/ea

Joined: 08 Sep 2008 Posts: 124

turbonetics starion manifold.

stock ported manifold -vs- T3 modded stock manifold.

and here is a shot of the treadstone installed.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Starquest without INTERCOOLRS sent the boost signal to the WASTEGATE directly from the compressor housing.

On INTERCOOLED models the boost pressure signal came from the OVCP. (over valve cover pipe)

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Some tips on removing the OEM Turbocharger. Yes.....you can BEND PARTS if you don't know these TIPS!

With a 21mm socket & breaker-bar.....and a #1 flat-blade screwdriver to prevent it from ROTATING the FITTING.....

.....and bending-da-shit outta it, Rolling Eyes

This is merely a TEST to see if you have the NECESSARY TOOLS!

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

OK....that worked and didn't bend that water hose so let's BACK-UP a lil.
Using a 1 3/16" or 30mm open-ended wrench...remove the nut from the air pipe.
On the intake manifold remove a 12mm bolt to remove the pipe altogether.

Now remove the two 12mm nuts to remove the O2 sensor. Now you can unbolt the CAT CONVERTOR.

Hold the ADAPTER NUT with a 19mm opened-end wrench and use a
14mm FLARE NUT WRENCH to remove the nut.

I have seen MANY of these oil pipes DESTROYED.....TWISTED all-ta-hell
from using the TWO WRENCHES METHOD!

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Use the same, 2 wrenches method below.....cept the ADAPTER is
17mm....but use the 14mm flare wrench again.
THE ADAPTERS ARE NOT TO MOVE AT ALL!!

Ya see..... Rolling Eyes

no BENT STEEL LINES AT ALL!

Now remove this bracket bolt.

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

This NOW.....gives you the ROOM to remove the INNER BANJO BOLT
but *ALSO* us the screwdriver to prevent the steel pipe from ROTATING!! Rolling Eyes

It's all that CRAP on the threads from not flushing the cooling system every 24 months that will CHALLANGE you! It also BLOCKS your coolant flow too!

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

From here: http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1067

If it feels that you are about to break the banjo bolts....or stripe the threads.... Rolling Eyes

leave the steel cooling lines attached, put some 3/8" hose on them to extend them....and fill it with CLR to DESOLVE THAT CRUSTY shit! Wink

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Remove the heat shields and BAG the boltrs & mark them. (no pic)

Now remove the OIL EXIT HOSE. 10mm.

This gives some room to remove the TOP nuts of the the turbo.

14mm wrench...a REDUCED SIZE HEX for a 10mm stud size! Rolling Eyes

NUT BUSTER RECOMMENDED!!

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

NO SURPRIZE......to see the manifold is cracked around pipe #1.

Also no surprize to see that pipe #4 is WARPED allowing a exhaust leak there too!

Also no surprize to see some STUDS snap-off! Rolling Eyes