CLUTCH, FLYWHEEL & HYDRAULICS REPLACE New x3

Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 5085

Email: waynescoolworld@netzero.net
(For any questions, parts orders, or for general communication)

or Call (505) 299-9012
(Parts Orders Only)

A.C.T info: TB#2 also applys to STOCK replacement clutchs. The older catalog pretty much say...."REPLACE OLD HYDRAULICS." Rolling Eyes

TB#8.......very interesting.....DIVERSION from the pure truth. Rolling Eyes

Sometimes....INTELLIGENCE is.....'borrowed' from Professor Quest manuals. Since a ACT employee owns a STARQUEST.....has access to RE-WRITE newer catalogs from MY S.O.S. manuals.....a "THANK-YOU" is in order here.........Mr. ACT. Rolling Eyes

Keep reading......I'll take you DEEPER! Twisted Evil

A KNOWN defect with a A.C.T. disc? yep. Rolling Eyes

Note the ADJUSTMENT ROD TYPE......No 'cush' rubber type. Wink

Later in this manual.....you'll see you can buy a replacement, 'SOLID' adjustment rod. Use of PRETTY PEDAL COVERS.... :lol:THICK FLOOR MATS..... Rolling Eyes

RESTRICTS PEDAL TRAVEL!

Note the "standard value" (B) is ONLY 1-3mm....at the BOTTOM of the pedal! Shocked

TRANSLATED: DAMN NEAR ZERO at the CLEVIS PIN! Wink

Do you see.....that silver shiney spot on the pedal? Rolling Eyes

Clutch pedals do not like TURNING SIDEWAYS! Rolling Eyes

"My clutch pedal RESISTANCE is excessive". Didn't have that much WEAR on the pedal bushings......either. Rolling Eyes

Pics are installed on page 4. Wink

"I put in a new clutch, but now it won't RELEASE." Rolling Eyes

This is the CLEVIS PIN with factory instructions of how to adjust your 'free-play' and checking your PEDAL HEIGHT. this is spread over several pages.......I suggest you RE-READ all pages within this topic. Wink

STOP!

Hey, the factory manual FAILS to point out WORN-OUT PARTS that are COMMON on 100k miles Starquest! Rolling Eyes

"It's not worn THAT BAD!" Laughing

You failed MATH......didn't you? Laughing

Btw....what does it say ABOVE "WORN OUT PARTS" Rolling Eyes

(see the first page...6-4) Laughing

BEFORE YOU BEGIN: Get your ducks in a row.

Many aftermarket replacement HP clutches state in the instructions that you should probably rebuild/replace the HYDRAULICS. You are about to put them under a load they have never had to deal with before. They WILL fail in short order.

There are THREE differant clutchs used in this car. TWO differant 225mm (8 7/8") one for intercooled cars and one without intercooled cars. (thru 87) They use a differant TOB and a differant ROD inside the SLAVE CYLINDER. And the 240mm (9 7/16" 88/89)

Buy a complete clutch kit. This should include: Pressure plate, Disc, Throw-out bearing (known as TOB) Pilot bearing and Alignment tool. 5 peice kit. 2 quarts of new gear oil. Find a machine shop that can REMOVE YOUR DOWEL PINS CORRECTLY (or replace them) and resurface the flywheel......IF it is REAL TOASTY! Rolling Eyes

UNHOOK THE GROUND FROM YOUR BATTERY!!! This topic contains info that will help you to install a clutch in a proper fashion. It also contains info to CORRECT other's replacements from the past that was done INCORRECTLY or overlooked. Also contains some MODS.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

You wanna BEEF-UP your 83-87 trans? We gotcya cover! Laughing

$120 shipped w/ hardware! Wink

The factory sheetmetal cover......WEAK-LINK! Shocked

Unless you like cleaning up gear oil......drain the trans......and remove the drain pan. Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Yep.......I don't like VIBRATION either! Evil or Very Mad

We can CURE any problem! Laughing

Torqued to 36-43 ft. lbs.

Index driveshaft and companion flange with punch and remove drive shaft. This is a part that might have been removed before and not indexed. So keep that in mind.

Also.....orbit both ends to see if the u-joints are showing any signs of wear. Inspect the slip-yoke bearing surface and seal surface for wear.

U-joint replacement instructions w/ part numbers are on another topic: Wink

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=921

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Unbolt this wire loom and remove.
Disconnect reverse light connector.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Unscrew speedo cable from the "Pulse Generator". The pulse generator sends a signal to the ABS controller located under the sub-floor in the right rear hatch.

Dumping ABS? Use the adapter from a non-ABS vehicle......even the truck version works too. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Remove bolt and retaining fork. NOTE: Gear oil leaking from this area is caused by 2 O-rings. One external, one internal. MF520403 & MD701788

NOTE: If you have removed your ABS you may eliminate this part and replace it with a adapter from an earlier car/truck that did not have ABS. Wink

Removing ABS?:
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=951

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Clip any wire/zip ties. That cable is routed incorrectly. Rolling Eyes

Should be above crossmember.
The outer mounts:MB309333 upper and MB309334 lower. You'll need TWO of each at $5.55 ea. if they are damaged or SOFT from gear oil contamination.
"I installed the BSEK.....I feel too much VIBRATION."
Over-looking the OBVIOUS?..... Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Note black and yellow cable. Important RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION GROUND.

Clean ALL surfaces and grind paint from BOTH SIDES of new trans mount. Also remove the ground from the frame and clean it's contact surfaces. Trans mount/insulator: Mitsu MB006705 $74.44 list

I tried an AFTERMARKET trans mount.... Rolling Eyes

Just bolting it in....NO FRICKING WAY I'll run that "ANCHOR-BRAND!" Shocked

"My OEM trans mount looks fine & wasn't oil soaked...to ME!"

Ahhhhhh, maybe he was WRONG? Rolling Eyes

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Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

There are TWO indexs. Mark one and remove the pulse generator.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Note: Correct install of lower shifter boot. It wraps around the edge of the sheet metal. Also note shifter bolts. You unbolt the shifter from BELOW and leave it in the car.
No need to take apart the console. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The clutch had already been replaced in this car. They TRIED to seal the shifter using silicone. They failed and the gear oil will DAMAGE all things made of RUBBER! A NEW gasket is the smart move here. MD703655

Note incorrect install of lower shifter boot. Lower trans about 4" and remove 4 shifter retaining bolts. Leave shifter in car.
No need to lower trans this far to remove shifter from trans.

STOP! There needs to be a gasket sealing the shifter to the trans. If you clean ALL the gear oil away silicone will work. Also, there is a nylon fulcrum bushing inside the lower shifter boot that is frequently broken. Once you lower the trans, if you see a brown, plastic chips in the area below the shifter.......your's is broken.

It is only sold with a new shifter ass. $160. See "Stedebani short throw shifter" topic:
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=967

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Note the manufactors LOGO/TRADEMARK cast right into this slave cylinder. More on this later. Wink

Remove two bolts from clutch slave cylinder. If removing slave to rebuild.......put a C-clamp on the hose so the system will not drain. Replace copper gaskets, they don't like to seal TWICE.

STOP! If your clucth felt weird, remove the rubber boot NOW. Using a flashlite look at the backside of the release fork to SEE if the retaining clip was broken off or badly bent. If the clip is broken........you'll NEED to replace the release fork, so make the arrangements now.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

GUYS!, YOU MUST REMOVE THIS DUST SHIELD TO REMOVE YOUR TRANS! Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

KNOW...the year model of your trans! The TENTH LETTER!
D= 83
E= 84
F= 85
G= 86
H=87
I= never used
J= 88
K= 89

Remove top two fastners. Leave the bottom ones for last.

SPECIAL NOTE: These two bolts can be remover from the top with a GOOD, LONG 14mm BOX-END WRENCH.....TORQUE SETTING 31-40 ft. lbs. Shocked

"Mine were LOOSE!" Rolling Eyes

That's because a DIPSTICK already replaced this clutch. Laughing

Starquest have VIBRATION.....deal with it. Idea

Note serial number on transmission.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Unbolt starter. The bolts should be 60mm long!
Torque setting: 16-23 ft. lbs.

The lower bellhousing bolts are 65mm long. They are often switched! :roll:Torque settings 31-40 ft. lbs. Shocked

page 21-12.

SPECIAL NOTE: Failure to PROPERLY TORQUE trans bolts= THEY BACK-OUT FROM VIBRATION!!! Shocked

= "MY CLUTCH WON'T RELEASE!" Evil or Very Mad

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

The job is much easier with the right tools. The bell-housing should be torqued to 40 lbs but....it might be tighter or looser.

Andddd....you can use a long 14mm BOXED-END wrench from the TOP 2 bolts, under-da-hood if you prefer.

I've done it many times myself. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

After removing the two lower bell-housing bolts, use a chiesel at this point to seperate the trans from the engine........working both sides.

MAKE SURE THE JACK IS SUPPORTING THE TRANS CORRECTLY!!!

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Note CORRECT BALANCE POINT ON TRANS. Red plug is FILL HOLE for trans. After the trans is reinstalled completely, fill with 75/85W gear oil (or your favorite "trick-shift") until oil starts to come out of hole.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Even if the mount looks OK.......it's still worn out. Think of that rubber as a tire. ALL tire manufactors have a rule: From the WEEK of manufactor.....4 year life span from DE-HYDRATION! Aftermarket mounts?
Even worst. Laughing

"I want 'EURETRASHED MOUNTS'! Hope you LOVE vibration sent right to your ass! Laughing

Mitsu mounts: MB006705 $74.44 retail $49.87 wholesale.

Failure to seal the shifter correctly will cause gear oil to leak on the mount. That's ONE of the reasons why this mount is so trashed. Bad shifter VIBRATION? You're looking at one of the reasons.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Outter mounts could also be bad. Upper MB309333 Lower MB309334 all are $5.55 ea.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

You can use your finger to do this. Pull forward on front part of clip, rotating the top of clip towards trans. Remove throw out bearing.

STOP! Laughing

This is where a newbie will blow it!!

You could do some damage here.

DO NOT PULL FORWARD ON THE RELEASE FORK!

Pull release fork toward boot opening to UNSNAP it from the fulcrum!!

Don't go crazy or you will damage the FORK RETAINING CLIP on the back of release fork.

Remember, the car has probably had the clutch replaced before....and the clip may already be bent or BROKEN OFF. Rolling Eyes

TOB Clutch release clips MD701242 $1.54 each. Easy to damage if you get stupid. Rolling Eyes

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Note FULCRUM at 4 o'clock. MD715650
Release fork boot number MD703280
Release fork MD703275

Look for excess or uneven wear at the bearing contact points. This one is marginal. MD703275

Normal clip position on the left, bent clip on the right.

Rotate the clip 90* and GENTLY bend back down CLOSEST to the rivet.

This is best done buy using the edge of the work bench with the clip resting on the bench.

*DO NOT APPLY THE FORCE TO THE TIPS OF THE CLIP!*

The wear marks on top of the clip suggest the clip was...
installed OVER the fulcrum HEAD.... instead of UNDER the fulcrum HEAD. Clutch pedal must have felt like crap. Rolling Eyes

It also tends to damage the fulcrum. MD715650
Maybe some SAND PAPER can SOS that FULCRUM! Wink

Same as the SOCKET...in the release fork.

BAD PIC.... Rolling Eyes

that clips STILL needs bent-back!

Be careful not to bend the clip....on the backside of the release fork.

I have noticed that on previous clutch replacements the clip is often already bent.

If so......rotate the clip 90*.....GENTLY BEND IT BACK and then return it to it's proper postion.

The fulcrum needs to SNAP INTO PLACE when you install the fork.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

With further detail...clean parts.

Left: NOT BENT.................Right: BENT Shocked

GENTLY...rotate the clip 90*...

You'll want a SOILD EDGE to bend the CLIP.....

......back where it was from the factory.

It is BENT....right next to the RIVET.

Below: STRAIGHTEND! Wink

If you get STUPID...or WRECKLESS...or CIRCUMVENT these
INSTRUCTIONS, you take the RISK of replacing the release fork. Rolling Eyes

Wire brush input shaft. Make sure it is spotless and has NO BURRS or built up grease.

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Red marks indicate grease points. NOTE: The forked part of the clip on the release lever is DOWN INSIDE THE RECESS. This makes the fulcrum SNAP into place. If yours is BENT......rotate the clip 90*, GENTLY bend it back down then return it to it's proper position. IMPORTANT!!!

Inspect the tip of the input shaft for damage. If the pilot bearing seized up it could be damaged.

Slide your NEW pilot bearing onto the input shaft. It should slide on easily. If not, you could have a hard time when installing/removing the trans! Shocked

If you can't slide the bearing on, measure the shaft. It should measure .590 The bearing area could be about .588 from wear. Sand- paper the tip if the bearing won't slide on easily. Wink

Joined: 06 Oct 2004 Posts: 1656 Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Notice counter sink in release fork. Fill with grease. This feature was started in 88. Sooo, why did the UPGRADE wait until 1988? Rolling Eyes

Maybe two many COMPLAINTS came forward.......for AVAILABLE LACK OF LUBRICATION......in ALL MODELS? Rolling Eyes