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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:13 pm |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:13 pm |
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The rod is 6mm......the nut is 12mm......and the bell is 14mm. Hold the bell with a 14mm wrench, then loosen nut with 12mm wrench.
You then can rotate the rod with: Your fingers, small pliers or a 6mm wrench. Notice how many threads are showing.
I am very much aware that another rod is slightly longer.....with more threads too. So....it's a "BOLT-IN" threaded rod. Give me one GOOD reason to tell you this application......cause it won't cure that MOOSHY BELL.
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:15 pm |
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Those lips on the edge of the reservoir do NOTHING......to remove the top of the reservoir pull STRAIGHT UP. Yes, it takes a pretty strong pull. |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:15 pm |
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Clutch "RETURN/EQUALIZER" spring is a LUBRICATED PART....yes you can unbolt it.....no it won't fly off.....yes it's easy to put back on.
Well......at ONE TIME......that WAS grease! |
Last edited by JustPaus on Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:14 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:15 pm |
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YOUR CLUTCH PEDAL HEIGHT w/CARPET...MID-FOOT PAD.
Right outta the factory........DEFECTS OCCURE!
This type of "DEFECT" is FINE.....until WORN-OUT PARTS OCCURE! EXTREME WEAR....not enough threads on the adjustment rod to cure this!
YOUR CLUTCH PEDAL HEIGHT w/CARPET...MID-FOOT PAD.
Translated: w/o carpet= "Standard Value:" (A) (7.4-7.6 in.)
Instruction #2.......READ IT!
Instruction #5......BS! Use instruction #1 (above)
"Standard Value" (B)!!
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:16 pm |
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YOUR BRAKE PEDAL HEIGHT w/CARPET shows.....the CLUTCH PEDAL HEIGHT SHOULD BE "HIGHER" than the BRAKE PEDAL!
Right outta the factory........DEFECTS OCCURE!
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:16 pm |
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Nope........you don't have to remove the pedal bracket to bush the clutch pedal.
I just took it out for the pictures. But if the pivot bushings & sleeve need lubricated or replaced.....remove the pedal.
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:17 pm |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:18 pm |
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PAY ATTENTION to this ELONGATED HOLE......that's why you have an ADJUSTMENT ROD to make-up for SLOP in your LINKAGE!
Buttt, you only have so many THREADS on the ADJUSTMENT ROD to make up the differance.
We can fix this elongated hole.
The COMBINATION of:
1. an elongated hole X2 ( you have TWO HOLES)
2. a worn-out clevis pin
3. a SOFT hunk of rubber inside the 'bell'=
NOT ENOUGH THREADS on the adjustment rod to OVER-COME THIS PROBLEM!
Yes, I know...."it don't show the 'bell'" It's an 89 Starion pic from the manual. People make mistakes. Besides......that 'BELL' is just that......an adjustment rod for........WOMEN!
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:18 pm |
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Last edited by JustPaus on Wed Apr 20, 2005 7:17 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:18 pm |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:19 pm |
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"Where do you get those bushings?" Hurst, Mr Gasket, Summit, Jegs, Speed Shops, etc.
BRASS hinge bushings....Pecker-Boys......"HELP" line. You take the EASY route?.....SIZE is up to YOU!
EXTREME WEAR........you AIN'T gonna adjust around this wear!
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Last edited by JustPaus on Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:19 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:19 pm |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 20, 2005 7:17 pm |
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I'm using a vise here cause I only have 2 hands. This is with NO PRESSURE on it.
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 20, 2005 7:17 pm |
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Using my HANDS........I could compress the rubber slug inside the "bell" .100" but I could not compress the NEW one at all!!
Aftermarket makers are notorious for using CHEAPER, SOFTER COMPOUNDS OF RUBBER! A couple bucks more and order it from Mitsu!=
If it ain't a MITSU or a PQ PART......WASTE OF EFFORT & $$.
Don't matter if you have "Perfect Free-Play" adjusted already. A SOFT HUNK OF RUBBER WILL LOSE TRAVEL OF THE Master Cylinder PISTON= lose of SLAVE PISTON TRAVEL! |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 20, 2005 7:18 pm |
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These are KNOWN to wear-out! That RUBBER SLUG becomes very soft! Some guys were WELDING it. This part is less than $15!
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Wed Apr 20, 2005 7:18 pm |
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:23 pm |
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If AIR is inside your hydraulics.....bleeding the SLAVE CYLINDER
will NOT remove air from your clutch master cylinder! AIR (from the slave cylinder) is gonna move up the LINE into the PISTON CHAMBER. That means.....YOU BLEED THE MASTER CYLINDER FIRST!!! DUH!
So.........you don't want to suck on the hose to remove the air from the system....Napa will sell you a 3/8 syphon bulb for $7.00
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:23 pm |
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Pictured below: Another means of SUCKING..or EVACUATING the AIR outta your hydraulics. With this DISC...that covers the BOTTOM of the clutch master cylinder RESERVOIR, (a well cut hose can cover the small hole in the bottom tooo ) would be an expense that you don't NEED to perform. This is for PUSSYS that don't wanna use their LUNGS.
That funnel used to be a VW fuel filter. Fill the hose with about 10" of DOT 3 brake fluid........hold the damn hose UPRIGHT. You SHOULD have 3 feet of 3/8 clear hose. If you can suck brake fluid up 3 feet of hose..........you deserve a mouthful.......cause you're an IDIOT!
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:24 pm |
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The "IDIOT-BULB"
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:24 pm |
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SUPER NOTE! IF YOU JACK-UP THE LH FRAME RAIL...THIS WILL POINT THAT NIPPLE A LIL' MORE VERTICLE....CAUSE BUBBLES WANT TO LINGER THERE!
No vacuum yet.......the air WANTS TO RISE BY ITSELF. DUH!
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:24 pm |
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CLAMP-IT! Tiny bubbles? The vacuum can suck-in air for lack of a clamp!
Now add the vacuum. You'll see air bubbles exiting the nipple. When the bubbles stop................
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:25 pm |
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......release the vacuum.
Now crack the slave bleeder so fluid will fill the slave and then close it.
A little more vacuum or PRESSURE BLEED the SLAVE to make sure all air is gone........done.
Clutch pedal should be as hard as a HONEY-MOON dick!
NOTE: if air bubbles continue to exit........you have a leak.
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:25 pm |
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Stroke the pedal a few times to be sure all air that was trapped in the system finds it's way to the top.
Now.....I'll show you how us racers would modify this linkage to kick-ass. You want REACTION TIME? I'll give you REACTION TIME
Btw.....did you do that "trick" to your slave cylinder
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JustPaus

Joined: 06 Oct 2004
Posts: 1656
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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Posted:
Mon May 16, 2005 4:29 am |
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